A Holiday in Athens – Soak in the Cradle of Civilization

It is the undoubted grand dame of all cities in the world; it was the world’s biggest center for the arts, learning and philosophy and there isn’t a country in the world that hasn’t been touched by this great city in some way; the birthplace of Socrates and home to Plato’s Academy and Aristotle’ Lyceum, Athens is the undisputed cradle of western civilization.

Athens is one city capable of stopping you in your tracks. Look around and you see three thousand years of civilization around you - the Acropolis, the Parthenon and the Temple of Poseidon – all are the symbols of a city which has been inhabited continuously by some peoples or the other.

But Athens is not just history and ruins. Look around more carefully and you will find the modern Athens weaving in and around its ancient fabric like a beautiful patchwork quilt. It is this mix of history, heritage and modernity that attracts people to Athens. Add to the city's gregarious nature, its friendly people and the warmth in everything around you and you have a place that tops the list of 90% of tourists.

When you come to Athens, you walk into the midst of a crucible where ancient culture is mixed with a modern one, where debates and the Forum have given rise to a people who believe in true democratic governance and in a system. And that’s not all because Athens is a city that also has all the bells and whistles you expect from a tourist destination. Here you can take in a twilight view from Athenians' favorite "violet-crowned" aerie, Mt. Lycabettus, and drink in the twinkling lights of the metropolis that is home to more than 4 million souls, still growing and still counting. Who wouldn’t want to be here?

The History of History

Athens at a Glance

c.3000BC Evidence of first settlement around the Acropolis

1400BC The Acropolis becomes a royal fortress

620BC Draco formalizes the laws of Athens and Attica

594-593BC The birth of democracy under the constitution of Solon

490BC The Battle of Marathon. Athens defeats the Persians

480BC Persian invasion of Athens

479BC Defeat of the Persians at Plataea by Greek force led by the Spartans

461BC Pericles replaces Cimon as the ruler of Athens

461-429BC The Golden Age under Pericles. Construction of the Parthenon and other Classical buildings

431BC Start of the Peloponnesian War against Sparta

430-428BC Plague wipes out a quarter of Athens' population including Pericles (429BC)

404BC Peloponnesian War with Sparta ends in defeat

338BC Philip II of Macedon conquers Athens and other Greek states

336BC Murder of Philip and succession of his son, Alexander the Great

336-323BC Expansion of the Macedonian Empire under Alexander through the Mediterranean and Middle East as far as India

146BC Roman Empire subjugates Macedonian rulers; Athens is incorporated into the province of Achaia

200BC-AD300 Roman rule in Greece

AD50 Paul the Apostle visits Athens to preach

AD330 Foundation of the Byzantine Empire by Constantine I as successor to the Roman Empire

AD395 Athens captured by Visigoths

AD529 Schools of Neo-Platonic philosophy closed by Justinian I, temples reconsecrated as Christian churches

1204 Franks and Venetians capture Constantinople and divide Greece between them

1456-1821 Athens under Ottoman rule from Constantinople

1687 Venetians besiege the Acropolis

1821 Hellenic rebellion against Turkish occupation

1821-29 The Greek War of Independence

1832 Prince Otto of Bavaria is selected by Western powers as king of the modern Greek state

1834 Capital of modern Greece transfers from Náfplio in the Peloponnese to Athens

1896 First modern Olympic Games held in Athens

1917 Greece joins the Allied forces and enters World War I

1920-23 Greece at war with Turkey

1923 End of Greek–Turkish war sees massive influx of Greek refugees from Asia Minor to Athens and Piraeus

1940 General Metaxas refuses Mussolini's fleet access to Greek ports in a now famous one word rebuttal – 'Óhi' (no)

1941 40,000 Athenians die in severe food shortages caused by the German and Italian occupation

1944 Liberation of Greece

1944-49 Greek Civil War

1967 Military coup results in the exile of King Constantine I. Greece ruled by Colonel Papadopoulos

1974 Overthrow of the military junta

1975 Republican constitution inaugurated

1981 Greece joins the European Union

1985 Athens becomes Europe's first Cultural Capital

1998 Devaluation of the drachma to prepare for European monetary union

2004 Athens hosts the Olympic Games

Spring or summer?

The Best time to go to Athens

Except for August and major holidays, when many Athenians migrate to their ancestral villages outside the city, the city remains wall to wall with tourists. So, the best times to visit the city are late fall and spring, when you can avoid the grimy heat and the busloads of tourists at every city attraction. This is also the time when you can make the most of the city’s famed nightlife; which in the low season either becomes non existent or moves to the seaside. Holy Week of the Orthodox Easter, usually in April or May, is a chance to observe Greece's most sacred holiday, including mournful Good Friday processions accompanying Christ's bier, and the candlelit Easter midnight service, complete with fireworks.

If you must come in summer, visit the sights in the early morning; then -- as the Greeks do -- take a nap or eat a leisurely lunch before continuing your explorations after 5 PM, when several museums and sites are still open.

Athens is the proud home of a fantastic and efficient that even has its own museum! In addition to flight, a well-run bus system, trains and ferries from the islands and Italy are also popular methods of arrival.

Piraeus is 10km southwest of central Athens; it is the busiest port in Greece with a bewildering array of international and domestic departures and destinations. There are three harbors in Athens, the largest of which is the Great Harbor or the Megas Limin, located on the western side of the Piraeus peninsula, which is the departure point for most ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran services; Zea Marina (Limin Zeas) and the picturesque Mikrolimano (Small Harbor), lie on the eastern side.

You could also get in to Athens by bus and would arrive at either of the two main intercity bus stations: Terminal A, about 7km northwest of Omonia at Kifissou 100 or Terminal B, 5km north Omonia off Liossion. International coaches from Albania, Bulgaria and Turkey arrive and depart from Peloponnese train station.

Driving in to Athens is second only to walking a tightrope across the Himalayan Mountains. You need to be strong hearted for this or leave the option to some other day. Athens is a busy European hub, well serviced by flights from most parts of the world. The new Eleftherios Venizelos international airport at Spata makes air travel to and from Greece the best option of getting into the city.

Getting about Athens

Athens is known for its headache producing traffic congestions but in the recent years, the advent of the new metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens relatively painless. The city now also has an extensive bus and trolley (electric cable bus) network that was upgraded for the 2004 Olympics.

There are several ways of getting about the city and one of the best is to catch one of the blue and white Suburban Buses that run every 15 minutes from several locations. They are inexpensive, usually comfortable and relatively fast.

Driving in car-clogged Athens is close to committing suicide with rash drivers on a hara-kiri spree, confusing signs, one-way street systems, cavalier attitudes to road laws and lack of car parks. Drive if you’ve had enough of the world. A saner option is taking the cable trolleybuses that run across the length and breadth of the city and are also very affordable. Athens' taxis are relatively inexpensive - though you should always check the meter is set to the right tariff.

Many of Athens' ancient sites are within easy walking distance of Syntagma and many museums are close by on Vasilissis Sofias, so chances are you won't have much need for public transport. But if you do, you'll find that the city's upgraded metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens far a breeze. Journeys that used to take an hour above ground take just minutes below ground.

Pillow Space in Athens

Athenaeum InterContinental: The Athenaeum is one of the most popular choices for business travellers and tourists looking for a comfortable accommodation. Located on the busy thoroughfare south of the Acropolis, the hotel is well equipped with modern amenities and a stylish place to stay.

Hilton Hotel: Located a short distance from the Evangelismos metro station, on the edge of Kolonáki, the refurbished Hilton Hotel is modern and comfortable place to stay.

Hotel Grande Bretagne: The Hotel Grande Bretagne is one of the most exclusive hotels in the city and has recently been renovated to restore it to its former glory and opulence. This is the city's oldest and most prestigious hotels that first opened its doors to business in 1872 and since then has played host to royalty, heads of state, film and rock stars

St George Lycabettus: St. George Lycabettus is the city’s most luxurious accommodation option for tourists and ensures your stay is more than comfortable and memorable. This luxury hotel, located in Kolonáki on the way up Lykavittós Hill, affords fantastic views over Athens. Adding to the hotel’s charms is The Grand Balcon restaurant – the hotel’s in-house restaurant that is set in a lovely roof garden and there is a rooftop swimming pool and bar, as well as a gym and sauna.

Art Hotel: Art Hotel is located close to Omonia and is a boutique hotel housed in a refurbished neoclassical building. Although there are only 30 rooms here, each one has been designed with care and precision resulting in well appointed rooms furnished with modern designer furniture, antiques and contemporary Greek paintings.

Plaka Hotel: The Plaka Hotel is a popular tourist haunt and charms visitors with its warm ambience that includes pine flooring, minimalist Italian-style furniture and cheerful, primary-colored fabrics. You can expect all the modern comforts here and staying here would also mean reaping the benefits of a very central location (it is close to the Monastiráki metro station and a five-minute walk from Syntagma Square). Do stay here for its roof garden overlooking Pláka, with a summer snack bar.

Also try Fresh Hotel in Sophocleous and Hotel Park that lies close to the National Archaeological Museum in L Alexandras.

Dining in Style

Athens is one of the best places to sample Greek cuisine. The city also offers great world cuisines in its many restaurants that dot the city. Some of the best places to dine out in Athens are:

Varoulko: Varoulko, located in Pireos, Gazi boasts a sleek modern wood-and-glass interior, plus a stunning roof terrace with Acropolis views. Considered by many the best seafood eatery in town, it is the proud recipient of a Michelin star and serves the freshest catch of the day.

Fasoli: Fasoli, located on Emmanuel Benaki in bohemian Exarhia, is a funky eatery, decorated with tiny fairy lights. The place offers innovative Mediterranean specialities including a good range of pasta dishes and colourful salads. The house wine is great and is served by the carafe.

48 The Restaurant: With its polished concrete interior and floodlit water garden, 48 is popular with rich, glitzy Athenians. The menu, featuring new-Greek cuisine, changes with the seasons. It's possible to take a stool at the bar for cocktails and finger food at this trendy place located in Armatolon Klefton.

Mamacas: Mamacas is another fine restaurant in Gazi and offers a romantic, almost surreal setting complete with candlelight, whitewashed wooden tables and a great wine bar annex across the street.

For budget eats try O Platanos- One of Pláka's oldest tavernas, located near the Tower of the Winds in Diogenous, Scholiarhio in Tripidon, Thanasis which is famous for its souvlaki kalamaki (shish kebab) served with pitta bread and chips.

Other good restaurants in town are Achinos on Akti Themistokleous, Sardelles which is located in the trendy nightlife district of Gazi and To Kouti which is located close to the Monastiráki antique market. The interior comprises lofty space with ochre-painted walls, wooden floors and marble-top tables. The menu features colourful salads and creative meat dishes. It is possible to come here just for coffee or a drink and in summer there are tables outside.

In general, Syntagma Square is not known for good food, but the area has a number of places to get a snack. Apollonion Bakery at Nikis, and Elleniki Gonia at Karayioryi Servias, make sandwiches to order and sell croissants, both stuffed and plain. Ariston is a small chain of zaharoplastia (confectioners) with a branch at the corner of Karayioryi Servias and Voulis (just off Syntagma Sq.); it sells snacks as well as pastries.

For the quintessentially Greek loukoumades, try Doris on Praxitelous, a continuation of Lekka, a few blocks from Syntagma Square. If you're nearer Omonia Square when you feel the need for loukoumades or a soothing dish of rice pudding, try Aigina, 46 Panepistimiou.

Everest is another chain worth trying; there's one a block north of Kolonaki Square at Tsakalof and Iraklitou. Also in Kolonaki Square, To Kotopolo serves succulent grilled chicken to take out or eat in. In the Plaka, K. Kotsolis Pastry Shop on Adrianou serves excellent coffee and sweets; it's an oasis of old-fashioned charm in the midst of the souvenir shops. Oraia Ellada (Beautiful Greece) cafe at the Center of Hellenic Tradition and has a spectacular view of the Acropolis. You can revive yourself here with a cappuccino and pastries.

The Athens Nightlife

Shake a Leg in the History town

Athens has a lively nightlife scene that takes place in the streets as well as in the hundreds of bars, tavernas and clubs throughout the city. Bars open until around 4 am and nightclubs go up to 6 am. Winter is the best time to enjoy the full range of after-dark entertainment, as many establishments move to the coast during the summer. For an authentic Athenian evening, find a bar or club offering bouzouki or rembétika music. Alternatively, numerous nightclubs and bars cater for international tastes. Most nightclubs are aggregated in the areas of Syntagma, Thissio, Psirri, Gazi and Kolonáki areas of central Athens, as well as in the suburbs, such as Kifissia, Glyfada, Vouliagméni, Voula and Varkiza.

The most 'happening' area of town is now Gazi, thanks to the new Kerameikos metro station, which has made it much more accessible. Some of the best places to go to are Hoxton on Voutadon which used to be a warehouse till it was re-born as an industrial-chic lounge-bar; Tapas on Triptolemou which is a cosy, Spanish-themed cocktail bar serving tapas and playing a good mix of eclectic music till the wee hours of the morning.

Closer to the centre you will find that Psirri has bars that caters to more mainstream tastes, with its once down-at-heel workshops which have been renovated to create popular bars, tavernas and restaurants. In this area check out Soul on Evripidou which is top of the heap, with a cocktail bar, lounge and restaurant in a stunning courtyard with deep red walls and lush planting, plus a dance floor upstairs.

To rub shoulders with the Athenian elite, try the upmarket area of Kolonaki. Business visitors favor Central on Platia Kolonki while those in search of something more colourful gravitate towards Mommy on Delphon - a glamorous bar-restaurant with 1970s décor and a young, rich, trendy clientele. For a drink under the stars with an Acropolis view, try the open-air cafes lining Apostolou Pavlou in Thissio and Adrianou near Monastiraki.

Athens' top clubs include Boudoir at Deligianni and Georganta in Kifissia, a smart suburb north of the city centre, Envy at Ag Eleoussis and Kakourgodikiou, and Mao at Ag Anargiron and Agatharhou, both in Psirri close to Monastiráki metro station. During summer, most of the big clubs move out to the beach.

Athens has a great live music scene with jazz dominating the fabric. For the best jazz in town go to the Halfnote Jazz Club on Trivonianou. Rock music enthusiasts might prefer the more informal Gagarin on Liosion and Atiki is the hottest place to go to for live concerts. Many of Greece's top bouzouki stars play at Athinon Arena at Pireos in Gazi. To hear authentic rembétika (blues sung by immigrants from Asia Minor who came to Greece in 1920s), try the Stoa Athanaton, an atmospheric venue, in the arcade inside the Central Market.

There's no end of monuments and attractions in Athens, and to see them all you would have to move house to the city. However, there are some places that you absolutely must visit. Start with the Acropolis and the Parthenon which dominate the city’s skyline and are the most visited monuments in the country. That also means you would have to shoulder your way through a sea of other tourists rushing to catch the best views of the two attractions. Cut the pain by getting there early and catching the Acropolis in all its glory in the early morning sunlight. Even if there were no Parthenon, the Acropolis is worth the visit just for the magnificent view of Athens and the surrounding temples below.

The second most visited destination in the city is the National Archaeological Museum which is a huge collection located in the heart of Athens. While even a brief visit is dazzling, you can only do justice to this place in at least 2-3 hours. Even then, you would find yourself whizzing past a millennia of Greek culture, starting with the Cycladic Island civilization and the Minoans and Myceneans, and stretching up toward the present.

Visit the Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon, taking a short day trip from Athens. This is one of those spots that are as much a favorite with the locals as it is with the tourists. It's a favorite sunset-viewing spot for everyone, and will give you a classically Greek moment against the ruined monument along with a terrific sea view.

Can't get away to the Greek islands? Or already missing the one you just left? Slip away to Piraeus, easily reachable by the Metro, and have dinner at one of the pricy but charming seaside taverns of Microlimano. It's not quite a Greek island, but it will do. Allow yourself some extra time and stop by the excellent Piraeus Archaeological Museum or the equally-fascinating Nautical Museum first.

The Plaka is the area of winding streets around the Acropolis. It's renowned for its small shops, restaurants, and some good examples of local domestic architecture. The downside? These days it's hopelessly touristy, but it's still engaging. My strategy is to stop somewhere for a frappe (iced instant coffee) every few hundred feet, especially in summer.

Want to rise above it all, especially on a hot day when the thought of the stony outcrop of the Acropolis seems too warm and bright? Take the easy way up Lycabettus Hill and escape the heat and, if you're lucky, some of the tourist crowds.

Visit the Syntagma Square, which is also known as "Constitution Square" and in many ways is the true epicenter of this palpitating city. It's a large, open square which often hosts holiday events, it's the location of several of Athens' most renowned luxury hotels, it's an intense public transportation hub, and it actually has the Parliament Building along one side of the square. Pedestrian-only Ermou Street leads off of it, providing access to some of Athens' better upscale shopping.

The Agora often gets the skip off by a lot of tourists for some reason. But this is one place which offers an easy hour's wandering, with the almost-perfect temple of Hephaestus, a rebuilt colonnade housing the museum, and many minor monuments. A multiple-site combo ticket makes it a particularly good bargain to combine a visit here with the Acropolis and other nearby sites.

Shop till you drop

Shopping is Athens is a pleasure because most shops of tourist interest can be found in the central city, bounded by Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares. Go to Monastiraki on a Sunday morning for its famous flea market where you can find a curious mix of knock knacks, some hidden gems like retro clothes and old copper. Many Athenians furnishing new homes head here to pick up old treasures.

The Plaka has pretty much cornered the market on souvenir shops, with T-shirts, reproductions of antiquities, fishermen's sweaters and jewelry. In the Plaka-Monastiraki area, shops worth seeking amid the endlessly repetitive souvenir shops include Stavros Melissinos, the Poet-Sandalmaker of Athens, , Iphanta - a weaving workshop, Emanuel Masmanidis' Gold Rose Jewelry Shop, the Center of Hellenic Tradition which sells arts and crafts; and the National Welfare Organization.

Kolonaki, on the slopes of Mount Likavitos, is boutique heaven. However, it's a better place to window-shop than to buy, since much of what you see here is imported and heavily taxed. During the January and August sales, you may discover bargains. If not, it's still fun to work your way up pedestrian Voukourestiou and along Tsakalof and Anagnostopoulou (location of probably the most expensive boutiques in Athens) before you collapse at a cafe by one of the pedestrian shopping streets in Kolonaki Square -- perhaps the very fashionable Milioni.

Then you can engage in the other really serious business of Kolonaki: people-watching. Give yourself about 15 minutes to figure out the season's must-have accessory. If you want to make a small, traditional purchase, have a look at the "worry beads" at Kombologadiko or check out charms that ward off the evil eye at To Fylakto Mou.

A top day in Athens

The best time to start your top day in Athens is early in the morning. This is the time when you can catch the city’s historic monuments in the bright early morning light and also soak in all the sights and sounds of the city. There are fisherman bringing in the fresh gifts of the sea, the shops are just opening up and the city dwellers are preparing for the day. The church bells chime the hour as you figure which café would be serving you your first coffee of the day. So get yourself a strong, frothy Greek coffee and watch the world go by.

Trek to the Acropolis and marvel at the structure and the times it has seen in its centuries of existence. Move on to the Ancient Agora, to admire the noble temple of Hephaestus and browse the museum, especially the fascinating ceramic fragments once used for the ostracism of unpopular politicians. Next head to the fabulous National Archaeological Museum where you would undoubtedly have to spend the rest of the morning – the pull of the antiquities at display is too strong to let you go quickly.

Fill the time before lunch with the pretty Byzantine church of the Holy Apostles before ambling on to the pedestrianised Ermou and the Keramikos, which was once the burial place of ancient Athens. From here you can enjoy magnificent views of the Acropolis – you can never get enough of this mega structure anyway!

After a light lunch on a terrace in nearby Thisio hop on to the metro and head to Kolonaki to the Museum of Cycladic Art, with its curious and beautiful ancient figurines. While here, trot up to the Lykavittos Hill. If the weather gods are sending heat your way, take the funicular to the top. However you reach the top, the views of the city would be stunning. Take a walk down through scented woods for some exercise before heading off to the touristy but charming Plaka for a coffee at the excellent Café Plaka.

By now it would be time for dinner and you can go to the nearby Taverna tou Psara or head to fashionable Psirí, a suburb that graduated from seedy to trendy magically in a matter of a couple of decades. Athenians dine late and you could try getting in with the crowd with a late dinner at about 10 pm before starting your pub crawl in the Gazi district.

The Athens Discoveries

- Visit the New Eugenides Digital Planetarium, which is the largest and best equipped planetarium in the world. Enjoy the exciting experience of sitting under a gigantic hemispherical dome watching the simulated space in a three-dimensional virtual reality

- Pay a visit to Tom Mc Grath at 23, Iperidon Street. Tom’s house collapsed in the ’99 earthquake but he still lives on the site with his dog amongst a curious mix of objects like a plywood coffin with two feet sticking out!

- Visit the Agia Dynamis – the Church that cannot be destroyed! The church lies under the ministry of education and religion on Mitropoleos Street and is squeezed between 2 supporting pillars. This is where the Greek ammunition master Mastropavlis had to make bullets for the Turkish as well as the Greek freedom fighters, smuggling the bullets out at night in garbage bags

The Travels-booking Tipster strikes again!

General

A lot of establishments in Athens do not accept credit cards and banking facilities are less than convenient, so you would be saved a lot of trouble by carrying a good supply of Euros

Banks exchange all major currencies in cash, traveller’s cheques or Eurocheques; the commission is lower for cash. Post offices exchange cash but not travellers cheques, and usually charge lower commissions than banks. Travel agencies and larger hotels change cash and travellers cheques but usually charge higher commissions than banks. Banknote exchange machines can be found in most tourist areas.

Athens is not a cheap city any more and you should expect to spend a minimum of € 50 a day, if you choose budget hotels and low-end eateries. Otherwise your budget could shoot up to a minimum of € 120 a day

Hotel rates vary enormously according to season - you can save as much as 30% if you travel in low season which is from mid-June till the end of August

Families

When traveling with your family, make sure everyone is alert about their surroundings as a lot of pickpocket gangs operate on the Metro and in crowded areas

Be mindful of children when crossing a street as the traffic may not stop even if there is a green walk light

Visit the Attica Zoological park in Spata – a must go place for vacationing families

Couples

In a romantic city like Athens it is easy for a couple to get so immersed in each other that you loose focus of your surroundings and become vulnerable to petty crimes like purse snatching – stay alert

Don’t flash jewelry or cash – tempting fate in Athens could have disastrous results

Spend a day at the beach, catch a great Mediterranean tan and revel in lazing about on the sun kissed sands

Visit the Allou fun park on your trip – who said amusement parks were not for couples?

Hear! Hear!

Fodors recommends eating out at Aristera-Dexia and Kollias

The NY Times suggests dining out in style and getting the best of Greek cuisine at Varoulko, Alatsi or Clemente VIII. Also on the NY Times recommendation book a room at the Divani Palace or the Andromeda Hotel

The Guardian recommends going to Athens in the summer time to catch some of the old Greek classics at the city’s 60 odd outdoor cinemas!

Athens virtual Tour

If you want to explore Athens from your computer, you can do this downloading this files to use with Google Earth software:

Athens virtual tour part 1 (kmz file)

Athens virtual tour part 2 (kmz file)

Athens virtual tour part 3 (kmz file)