Overview

Temples, Lady-Boys & Fried Grasshoppers

No single picture can describe Bangkok, once known as ‘Bang Makok’, literally ‘place of olives’, one of the largest and fastest growing cities in Thailand and perhaps the only city in the world that juxtaposes religion and sex so effortlessly. A city of immense cultural importance, Bangkok is undeniably Thailand’s most popular tourist destination too. Sure it is chaotic, confusing and confounding with its exotic culture and a labyrinthine layout; Bangkok is also charming with its diversity in cultures, cuisines and its nightlife. There isn’t a map in the world that would do justice to its confusing streets but help is always at hand in the form of a local who would go the extra mile to get you to your actual destination. In Bangkok, people take visitors very seriously!

A raging monster of a metropolis, Bangkok offers peace within chaos with its numerous temples, its museums and parks. There is new age entertainment for the young and old and other worldly pleasures like the iconic ‘massage parlors’ for those who seek the spicy. While on the subject of spicy – there’s also Thailand’s delicious food – feisty, robust and unusual, at its best in Bangkok making the city an adventurous gourmand’s delight.

Getting to Bangkok is easy via the modern Suvarnabhoomi airport and getting around the city is fun with several options ranging from walking and cycling to the ubiquitous ‘tuk-tuk’ available at affordable prices. Finding accommodation is fun though you may want to pre-decide whether you want to splurge or save because options at both ends of the continuum abound. The weather is usually hot and humid but there are several good months in a year when you can really enjoy the outdoors and even if the weather is clement, there are enough activities to keep you busy – like the city’s legendary nightlife which is roaring, perhaps a little sweaty and a lot of fun.

So pack your bags and get ready to face one of the most challenging cities in Southeast Asia that will assault your senses with its strange mix of squalor and affluence and leave you panting for more.

A storied history

Bangkok started life in the mid-16th century as a small village on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in the area now known as Thonburi. Then known as Bang Makok after the Olive like Java Plums that grew in abundance in the area, Bangkok was a small trading port and village that existed before the Ayutthaya Kingdom was founded. After the fall of Ayutthaya a new capital was established on the west bank and later in 1782, King Rama I built a palace on the east bank, known today as Rattankosin and the renamed the city as Krung Thep – translated as the 'City of Angels'.

Bangkok in 16th century

Bangkok is perhaps the only city in the world to have a full ceremonial name "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisn ukarmprasit"! The name has earned a place in the Guinness Book for being the longest place name which in English means - "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city of Ayutthaya of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn".

King Rama I was responsible for building the city walls employing the Khmer POWs, for expanding the city’s canal systems and for constructing several new, magnificent temples using the skills of the artisans from Ayutthaya. King Rama I was also responsible for giving the city its ceremonial name, mercifully shortened to ‘City of Angels’.

King Rama III came to throne in the early years of the 19th century and the city saw a rise in temple construction under his rule. The next ruler built the first roads in the city, giving it a sharper appearance of a city and the first road was constructed alongside the river in 1861. more roads came up quickly and before the century was over, Bangkok was bustling with horse-drawn carriages and rickshaws which replaced boats as the preferred mode of travel.

More urbanization took place in the first few decades of the 20th century when the city started mushrooming in all directions with new localities growing. Old roads were upgraded and new ones added to bear the burden of motorized transport. Bangkok saw several new developments in the next few decades – Thailand established a new constitutional government in 1932 and the city was occupied briefly by the Japanese in the Second World War. The war gave a fillip to the city’s modernization drive and by the mid sixties the city was already making a name for itself as a 'rest and recreation' spot for American troops involved in the Vietnam conflict, a legacy that continues to this day in the form of various nightclubs and massage parlors.

The city experienced a long period of political uncertainty arising out of rule by successive dictatorships and this situation changed after Gen Prem Tinsulanonda assumed power in 1980 and consequently led the country to an economic boom through the 80s. However, Bangkok’s fortunes nose dived during the economic crisis that swept Asia in 1997 and it took several years before the city took back some of what it had lost.

Today Bangkok is home to nearly 10 million people living in an area that is roughly 350 Sq.Kms. The city skyline is peppered with skyscrapers and glistening towers jostling for space with temple spires and the blue sky. The city attracts millions of travelers from across the globe that come here to find peace, a new perspective or just some good old fashioned loving.

Come Rain or Sunshine

Bangkok can best be described as ‘hot & wet’ for most months in the year. It is between hot and unbearably hot from March to May and hot, humid and slushy from June to September when the monsoon gods unleash their might on the city. Everything becomes soggy and getting about is tough– but life doesn’t stop. If you are going to be in Bangkok during any of these months make sure to not get dehydrated and always carry an umbrella.

If weather is inconsequential to your wanderlust then choose any month to visit but the best time in Bangkok is between November and March when the weather is dry and cool. Be warned however, that the good weather brings with it high hotel rates and more expensive restaurant prices so book in advance and you wouldn’t want to rob a bank.

You could also time your visit to coincide with some of the grandest festivals that take place in the city - the festive season from January to April when a lot of food festivals are on and when fashion weeks are being organized. The best way to get to Bangkok is via the well connected Suvarnabhoomi Airport.

How to arrive

Tuk – Tuks or Taxis?

Even with its million confusing, cacophonous roads, by-lanes and alleys Bangkok is not a tough city to traverse; the reason being its fantastic public transport system. Yes, there is pollution and the congested traffic but with the Sky train (BTS) and the underground Metro you can get to all the main shopping areas, city attractions and business areas in a jiffy. River taxis on the Chao Phraya River are a unique and very affordable way of getting about and quite a ‘do’ by themselves. So if for nothing else you must take the Chao Phraya Express Boat (12 baht) just for the experience. The boat travels up and down the river with stops at most of Rattankosin’s attractions like the Grand Palace and the Temple of Dawn.

Taxis are cheap and easily available at most street corners, malls, hotels and attractions. Although most are colored the traditional red- yellow and green - yellow, a lot of new ones come in funky reds, blues and orange. The tariff starts with 35 baht for the first 2 kms and then increases about 2 baht for each additional one. Although easily available, taxis may be hard to find in the monsoons.

Bangkok is famous for its smoke spewing, noise making tuk-tuks or motorized rickshaws all over the world and a ride in one of these contraptions is a must. However, you must resist any offers of taking you to a ‘good place’ as you may land up in trouble or a brothel!

Another easy way of getting around the city is by bus which is affordable and connects even far out locations well with the center. Get a ringside seat and enjoy a low-cost tour of the city – all you have to deal with is a little noise and some sweaty co-passengers. A word of caution here: avoid driving in the city as it is a big headache for the uninitiated and don’t get on a bike taxi unless you are on a death wish.

While cycling sounds suicidal considering the seemingly deranged traffic, it is a great way to get to know the city and discover hidden gems. You have total control over where you go and where you want to stop and its eco friendly! If nothing else works for you then take the easiest and most economical option of all – walk.

A Good Night’s Sleep…

…in Bangkok is within everyone’s reach because of the large number of hotels, Bed & Breakfasts, self service apartments that dot the city. During high season rooms get sold before you can say tuk-tuk so it is advisable to book ahead so that you don’t end up either paying a lot or in a less than desirable place. Before we begin, we’d like to put in a word for The Sukhothai Bangkok ($312). Located close to Lumpini Park, The Sukhothai is wildly popular for its magnificent blend of a crisp, contemporary style with elements from traditional Thai architecture, Thai objects d’art, fabrics and motifs borrowed from its namesake historic city of Sukhothai – The Dawn of Happiness. The hotel’s services are amazing, its public spaces eye catching and the rooms are world class.

One tourist favored area in the city is the Riverside, home to several attractions, where some of the top hotels like the Millennium Hilton Bangkok (left) are situated. Chao Phraya is the life blood of Bangkok and staying in a hotel close to its bank is like indulging in a piece of the city’s history. Choose the Millennium Hilton ($188) for a complete luxury experience to make your holiday a memorable one. The hotel boasts of more than 500 rooms with every single one overlooking the snaking Chao Phraya, three world class restaurants and a gigantic 10 room spa for you to indulge yourself in. Whatever else you do, don’t miss out on the unique Infinity Pool which has sun-beds ‘in’ the water!

Another good option in this area is the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa ($186) a resort style 5-star hotel on the banks of the river. The best feature of the hotel is that is offers tranquility in the middle of a crazy city like Bangkok – the quiet and calm perfectly complemented by the hotel’s services, a discreet and well trained staff that pampers you silly and several in house restaurants and a delicatessen which is highly recommended. Other recommended hotels in this area are: Lebua at State Tower ($255), Chatrium Suites ($201), Mandarin Oriental Bangkok ($409) and Shangri-la Hotel ($191)

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Sukhumvit in many ways personifies the contemporary, elite and affluent Bangkok with its cloud kissing apartment buildings, swanky restaurants and air conditioned shopping malls. The snazzy new Sky Train links this district to the main tourist and commercial areas of the city making it an ideal base for you. If you are looking for a luxurious place stay in this area go for the Sheraton grande Sukhumvit ($219) which spoils you with its well appointed suites and deluxe rooms, a full service Spa, a fabulous pool and open air Jacuzzi and a night club at the ground floor. Well connected to all the major attractions and shopping areas by the Sky Train, the Sheraton boasts of holding the no. 2 position among the best hotels in Asia.

 Another one in the uber-luxe category is the JW Marriott ($198) which has all the trappings a splurgy hotel should have along with proximity to most attractions and shopping areas. Other options in this area include Amari Boulevard Hotel ($ 126), Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Park Plaza Sukhumvit ($116), Fraser Suites ($130), Grand Millennium Sukhumvit ($165) and Banyan Tree Bangkok ($225).

If you’d rather spend your money shopping or taking day trips, choose a mid range hotel in any location in the city – there are enough choices to confuse you! Bossotel Bangkok ($61) on the riverside is a popular choice among travelers for its location and in room amenities as well as great breakfast. Consider Aspen Suites ($63) for its convenient location in Sukhumvit, the quality of service provided by the staff and the rooms themselves which come equipped with tea/coffee facilities, a large LCD television and a spacious refrigerator.

Other popular tourist haunts in this price segment are Regency Park Bangkok ($64), Lamphu Tree House ($45), Phranakorn Norlen Hotel ($60), Center Point Silom ($64) and The Emerald Hotel ($68).

Bangkok also offers a number of low-cost economy accommodations especially popular among backpackers and single travelers. Some of the best ones to try are: Kawin Place Guesthouse ($12), D&D Inn ($16), All Seasons Bangkok Huamark ($21) and Krit Thai Mansion ($22).

Restaurants

Mood for Food

Eating out in Bangkok really means pigging out – unless of course you are not the experimental kinds. For those open to culinary adventures here’s the list –deep fried giant cockroaches and bugs, fried black scorpions and grasshoppers, maggots, crickets and small lizards. Another one for the ‘weirdy foodies’ is the ‘dancing shrimp’ called so because they are soused alive with condiments eaten up without any further ‘cooking’!

Don’t let that list make you run, though, because Bangkok offers a fabulous smorgasbord of dishes culled from every cuisine in the world. However you can get great French food back home too and when in Bangkok you shouldn’t leave without sampling the sensational Thai Cuisine. One of the best places to do that is Celadon at the Sukhothai Hotel where you must sample Khong Waang and the duck and apple with red curry. Taling Pling is another big hit with tourists and locals alike as much for its rustic wooden décor and pretty photographs of a bygone era as for its delightful and filling catfish salad, beef with spicy green curry and the roast duck panaeng.


Try Baan Khanitha for authentic Thai dishes like deep fried chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves, krathong thong, soft shelled crabs and Yam som-O - pomelo salad with shrimps and chicken. Other noteworthy Thai food restaurants include Thiptara, Sala Rim Than, The Blue Elephant, Supatra River House and Thon Krueng Restaurant.

If French cuisine catches your mood on a particular evening, try La Banyan south of Sukhumvit road where the lobster bisque is sure to take you by surprise. The warm décor and affable ambience of the restaurant doubles the pleasure of feasting on a Provencal style rack of lamb, Rouennaise pressed duck with goose liver and the choicest desserts. Another good place for French cuisine is the luxurious Le Normandie at The Oriental Bangkok. Dining at this fabulous restaurant is a superlative Bangkok experience, where the excellent view across the night time Chao Phraya vies for attention with delectable Foie Gras or a Crab salad for appetizers and a Brittany lobster or steamed sea bass for the main course.

Why would you want to go to a small French bistro tucked away in a small alley in that mad place called Patpong? That is because Le Bouchon is one of the best Lyonnaise bistros in the city having been the lifeline of hungry gourmands for over a decade now! Try the Venison, the goat cheese salad or the light as fluff poached salmon, here. The cassoulet is to die for and the lentil salad with pork tongue is just what an adventure seeker needs. Other French cuisine restaurants to try are A L’Etage and Le Beaulieu.

For an unforgettable gastronomic experience try Bangkok’s finest Italian restaurant – Biscotti. Housed in The Four Seasons in the Sukhumvit area this is perhaps the best Italian eatery out of Italy. The place is warm and homely yet elegant and sophisticated in its décor as well as its food. Try one of the authentic wood fired pizzas and choose from a wide array of antipasti to feel truly pampered. Another popular Italian restaurant is Viccolo Quattro located on Silom Soi famous for its home-style pizzas, especially with the Fennel sausage and Tiramisu. For more Italian food try the Indian sounding but totally Italian Govinda, Zanotti and Enoteca Italiana. One of the best Japanese restaurants in the city is Shin Daikoku and you must give the sashimi and sushi a try. For more seafood head to Pier 59, Somboon seafood and the Seafood Market in the Sukhumvit area. You can also find sumptuous Chinese food in the city and most people have the hots for Mei Jiang. A lot of Indian restaurants can also be found in the city and the top ones include Rangmahal and Mrs. Balbir’s.

Night Marauders

Bangkok’s nightlife is legendary and is a big draw for tourists. People want a good time and get it, whether it is in the form of the traditional “beer, greasy food and jumping on a dance floor like frogs in a mixer” or of a more salacious kind in the form of ‘ping pong’ shows, go-go bars and Bangkok’s famous Lady-Boys in questionable massage parlors. This is Bangkok and you get what you wish for.

We are skipping the Kathoey kind of fun altogether and concentrating on the regular night scene you’d expect in any touristy spot; only it isn’t quite the same thing in the City of Angels because a few good bucks take you a long way here; from the wildest clubs to the most sublime jazz bars.  We suggest you start by spending some on the Zaza Party House in the underbelly of the Shangri-La Hotel where 20 somethings gyrate to disco, rap and rock. The ‘body Sonic’ system puts the beat right inside you and you become one with the music – nothing like this one to set the mood for the evening.

You could also jump start your evening with an adrenalin filled session at the Rome Club in Patpong. This is one of the most popular discos in Bangkok and perhaps the only place where a thoroughly mixed clientele dances dirty on the smooth marble floor amidst a riotous spray of lights from the strobes on the ceiling. Another wildly popular disco is Phoebus on Ratchadaphisek Road as is Bubbles at the Dusit Thani Hotel. For good cocktails and some dancing head to The Nile Club at the Mandarin Hotel where crowds sway to live dance music when not sipping their cocktails.

You could also get in some of the best dance clubs on Khao San road like Lava Bar, The Club and Gazebo – a Moroccan themed bar where you can either relax with a Shisha or foot thump to reggae. Khao San Road is also famous for its many pubs and bars where you could sit through a few beers and lots of conversation with a side of lively music.The best ones are Cinnamon Bar, Hippie de Bar and Silk Bar.

If you are an inveterate night owl you simply can’t leave the city without having visited the trendy Q Bar. This is the place where Bangkok’s bourgeoisie hangs out, swaying to live music spinned out by famous DJ’s. If you are more of the beer and good music type of a person then Concept CM2 on Siam Square is just the thing for you. Mix in with the crowds that love the DJ – spun dance and techno. Rock & Roll lovers find a home at the Hard Rock Cafe where the city’s hottest live bands strut their stuff.

There is more to the sin city’s nightlife than just rowdy parties and lewd girly bars and for those who want to experience part of Bangkok’s real culture there are several options like contemporary dance recitals at the Patravadi Theatre or the nightly puppetry theatre at the Joe Louis Theatre at the Suan Lum Night Market. The Thailand Cultural Center close to Ratchadaphisek Road is the newest performance center in town where you can catch the Bangkok Symphony during summers or a dance show by local productions.

Things to do

City of Angels

Like any other historic city in the world Bangkok too has a curious mix of old and new attractions. If there are majestic temples in the Riverside area then Sukhumvit contrasts and complements with ultra modern entertainment complexes and parks. Here are some of the top attractions you must visit:


Wat Pho: Spread across a whopping 80,000 Sq. ft, Wat Pho or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and the largest temple in Bangkok. The wat is a key attraction drawing thousands of visitors annually who come here to pay tribute to the gargantuan, 46- meter long and 15 meter high, gold plated Reclining Buddha and a thousand more images of Buddha created in Indian and Chinese styles. Visit the temple known as Wat Phra Chetuphon to Thais for the awe it inspires and to see the sheer power of devotion to a faith.

Wat Phra Kaew: Wat Phra Kaew or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha is one of the most spectacular temples in the city. Sitting majestic right next to the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew is a kaleidoscope of golden spires, glimmering mosaics and thousands of people as awestruck as you are. This is Thailand’s most revered temple and due respect is expected from all who enter its sacred portals. Dating back to 1782, Wat Phra houses the tiny but extremely important Emerald Buddha – it launched several battles before coming to its final abode- perched high above the heads of worshippers. Located in the historic core of the city, the image has immense significance for the Thai people and is waited upon thrice a year during ceremonial ‘robe changing’ by the reigning king himself!

 Wat Arun – Translating literally as ‘Temple of Dawn’, Wat Arun is perhaps the most iconic image of Bangkok and the one you would undoubtedly take back with you. Situated on the west bank of Chao Phraya, Wat Arun was constructed during the Ayutthaya Kingdom and once home to the Emerald Buddha for a brief period. The most distinguishing feature of the temple is its massive central Khmer Prang that rises to nearly 70 meters and the porcelain and colored glass decorations that adorn it.

The Grand Palace: The spectacular Grand Palace built in the 18th century is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city. Visitors turn up by boatloads on the Chao Phraya Express Boat to see this magnificent building complex which was once home to the Kings of Thailand. The Grand Palace was the administrative seat of the kingdom and hosted within its walls the country’s most important ministries and even the Royal Mint. You won’t find the king here anymore but the palace still serves as the seat of power and is the spiritual core of the country.

While at the Grand Palace it would also be a good idea to walk down the street and get a dekko at the National Museum which is housed in the former palace of the second King – or a crown king of Thailand. The post was slashed by King Rama IV in 1887 and the National Museum was set up, initially showing off the private collection of the king and his predecessors. The museum has expanded since then and now displays exotic objects like armaments, musical instruments, khon masks and Royal clothing – worth a visit.

Royal Barges Museum: Bangkok is not exactly known for its museums but along with the National Museum you must also include the Royal Barges Museum on your ‘to see’ list’. The museum displays over 50 fabulous royal barges that were once used by the king for transportation and ceremonial use during the annual katin ceremony. Each of the barges is adorned with a figurehead (Naga, Garuda, Krabi and Hera) that has a particular significance. Watch out for the one with Vishnu mounted on Garuda; this is the most spectacular of all the barges. Another one to focus on is the Suphamahong – the king’s personal barge and the most well known piece, this was used by the king during the royal procession for the Katin Ceremony.

Erawan Shrine: The Erawan Shrine located on one of the busiest junctions in the city has an amazing history. The structure is not old but the reason behind its construction is a testament to faith in the Thai society to its Gods and their powers! The shrine was built in 1956, next to the present day Grand Hyatt Erawan, as an appeal to Brahma called Pha Phrom in Thai, to allow the construction of the hotel go peacefully without any more deaths…prior to the construction several accidental deaths had taken place at the site. The shrine was built and the deaths stopped; such is the power of faith!

Since then the Shrine has gained reputation for granting wishes and is always bustling with devotees who offering flowers and incense to Brahma asking for their wishes to be fulfilled.


Other notable attractions in the city include the Jim Thompson House, Vimanmek Mansion Museum, Wat Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relic), Wat Saket (The Golden Mount), Siam Society, Wang Suan Pakkard, Wat Benchamabophit, Wat Suthat & the Giant Swing Wat Traimit (The Golden Buddha).

The Mad Shopper

If there is one thing Bangkok knows how to ace at it is shopping. So much so that you’d be hard pressed for time and dizzy deciding between one more temple to get mesmerized with and one more hour of going doolally with shopping! In the end you will perhaps just extend your stay to go blow your chips on stores in one of the sprawling malls like the CentralWorld Shopping Complex that is spread over 550,000 sq meters and befuddles you with stores like SuperSports, PowerBuy, SB Furnitures and Toys ‘R’ Us. This is also home to Zen – the department stores that is spread like a giant manta ray over seven floors. Other stores to splurge on are Zara, Timberland, Next and Country Road.

There is so much shopping to do in Bangkok that you are probably going to need a shopping map; lucky we have just the right one for you. Take a look here before we start giving you the low down on one of the biggest ‘ups’ in life – retail therapy!

Another mall you mustn’t miss is Mah Boon Krong on Phayathai Road; more popular as ‘MBK’ where you could easily loose your self in 2000 stores spread over 8 floors. What you could buy from here? Just about everything from clothing, fashion accessories, handbags, leather products and luggage to cameras, stationary, electronics and everything in between. The best part about shopping here is that you can bargain like it was going out of style and often all it takes is a largish smile. Other destinations for mall rats are – the chic Emporium, the very contemporary Siam Discovery and the real money gulper – Siam Paragon.

You can’t call your shopping done till you have visited the colossal Chatuchak Weekend Market where monks jostle for space with brightly dressed teenagers and awe-struck tourists, all bargaining for handicrafts, accessories and household appliances and more at knock out prices. The market is on only on weekends and sprawls like a lazy giant over 35 acres of land; it’s easy to get lost AND dehydrated here, so make sure you stay with your group and always carry a bottle of water with you.

Another market to visit, though not the best to shop, is the Patpong night market. Located in Silom, this is a chaotic, crowded place where you can buy ‘fake’ everything – shoes, watches and Diesel Jeans! The area is also the city’s world famous red light district…beware of touts and seedy bars that are just out to rip you off. Another night market, one where you can actually shop is the Suanlum night bazaar where hundreds of stalls sell handicrafts, clothes and accessories as well as yummy Thai food like pork-rice.

Bangkok is full of local markets and another one on your list should be the 24-hour Pratunam Market located near the intersection of Ratchaprarop and Phetchaburi roads. This is the best place in the city to buy cheap but trendy clothes, fabrics and fashion accessories as well as good traditional Thai textiles. Other markets of note are: Banglamphu Market, Bai Yoke, Nai Loet and the Bo-Be Market.


Orchids at Thewet Market Buy fresh flowers like orchids and potted plants from Pak Khlong and Thewet Market, for more flowers as well as meat and fresh seafood go to Bangrak Market, buy old and rare stamps from the Stamp Market on Charoen Krung road, electrical goods from Penang Market in the Khlong Toey Port district and cheap but fresh food ingredients from the nearby Khlong Toey Market.

Tips

Bangkok in a jiffy

First of let us tell you it would be unfortunate if you had only a day to spend in Bangkok…even a week wouldn’t do justice to this wonderful city. However if spent wisely a day can help you capture the flavor of Bangkok and make it a remarkable memory. If you are arriving early in Bangkok catch in the best of the temples – Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Po and Wat Arun Temple of Dawn – all of them are located close to each other. Add the Grand Palace to this trip because it is in the proximity and is one of the key attractions in the city. This should take you about half a day if you can tear away from the grandeur of the temples and the palace.

Have lunch at a traditional Thai eatery and if you can stomach it, try one of the popular fried bugs! An essential Bangkok experience is shopping at the Chatuchak market which runs only on weekends. If you are in the city on a weekday don’t fret because the city is full of delightful markets like Pratunam Market where you can get along with cheap, trendy clothing, tradition hand-woven Thai fabrics and textiles. Watch out for Thai silk as it is a rarity and each piece is worth cherishing. You could also catch up on some mall ratting at CentralWorld or MBK where imitation handbags, shoes and accessories rule the roost. You could also pick up electronics, DVDs and computer accessories from one of these malls.

Rest your tootsies at a café like Bitter Brown close to the Sukhumvit MRT and order a latté to repair your nerves already frazzled with the heady mix of jazzy shopping and stunning sites. Take in the sights & sounds of the city as it passes by you unhurried in its hurriedness, often busy, sometimes without a care and soak in the colors of this wonderful city where squalor and grandeur brush shoulders comfortably.

In the evening you have the option of taking another city tour on the Chao Phraya River Express Boat and see a completely different view of Bangkok or be like any other tourist and let your hair down at one of its hundreds of bars and dance clubs. Don’t call it a night till you have wandered through the Patpong Night Market and seen the glitzy, fake watches and denims dangling in brightly lit stalls vying for space and your attention with the ubiquitous go-go bars and sleaze points.

Surprises in the Big Mango!

- Wind down with a meditation class (offered in English!) at The Bangkok National Museum for a small fee
- Browse through fab English titles in fiction and non-fiction at Asia Books on Soi 33 in Sukhumvit
- Take a walk in the old district of Banglamphu and steer your course through the very un-tourist like shop-houses and Thai cafes. The area also has some used book stores where ardent seekers are sure to be rewarded
Visit the Lingam Shrine in Nai Lert Park, to seek blessings for fertility and good fortune – do bring back a phallic souvenir!

Few guides would tell you about a 320-acre park called the Ancient City – a collection of the most famous attractions in the country (Bangpoo, Sukhumvit) – a great way to get a mini tour of the country
Fancy Beckham? Check out Wat Pariwas close to Chong Nonsi Skytrain station where there is a bronze statue of the football star!

TipMaster

General

- Bangkok is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Asia and suffers the same ills as any other tourist – laden city in the world: pick pockets and bag snatchers. Be aware of your belongings while in thick crowds and market places
- Scams are always around the corner especially where tuk-tuks and taxis are concerned. Often a tuk-tuk driver outside an attraction would tell you it is closed and he could instead take you cheap jewelry shopping/another great attractions etc – don’t fall for it, you may end up on a lonely road without your papers and money!
- Temples have strict dress codes and you wouldn’t be allowed inside in shorts, bare armed or without proper footwear. If you turn up without the requisite clothing hire some outside the Wat.
- Insulting the King is a crime and throwing things, even money at a shopkeeper out of your hands reach, is considered rude

Families

- Send the missus and kids to the Dusit Zoo and revel in a day of blissful golf at the Thai Country Club’s 18-hole Golf Course.
- Take a family adventure trip to the Khao Yai National Park and watch more than 350 species of birds, herds of elephants, gibbons, the Asiatic Black Bear and Wild Dogs on their home turf
- Visit Dreamworld, an adventure theme park which would delight kids with its replicas of Seven Wonders of the World, sprawling gardens to play and relax in and scores of fun rides to choose from.
- Visit the Siam Ocean World – the largest aquarium in all of Asia to see eagle rays, sharks and penguins – a delight for the whole family

Couples

- Take a romantic dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya
- Lumpini Park is a great place to hide from the city’s kitschy, touristy atmosphere. The extensive garden offers a piece of tranquility in all the chaos of Bangkok and makes for a great escape from the city’s tourist filled streets, the madcap shopping and touts. Walk hand in hand or go paddle boating; romance is sure to bloom
- Spend an evening just talking and enjoying the music at the Bed Supper Club – lying down on pearly white sheets, champagne in hand and conversations in the air.

Expert Recommendations

- The Guardian would have you skip all other markets in favor of the Amulet Market on Phra Chan Road to bring back a Buddha Statue – seated, standing, in a lotus…whatever style you want

- Fodor’s suggests staying at the Chakrabongse Villas in the Old City, on the banks of the Chao Phraya River for the authentic experience of living in a typical Thai house

- Gridskipper recommends trying the Snakehead in a spicy hot and sour sauce at Somboon on Surawongse Road. Also on Gridskipper’s recommendation visit the newly opened Teo+ Namfah Gallery in the Ozono Complex on Sukhumvit Soi 9

- The NY Times suggests filling up on bowls of thick soup at Chote Chitr, a 90 year old, family run restaurant on Prang Pu Thorn, Tanao Road

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