Dusseldorf – the work hard, play hard city lures tourists

Dusseldorf, the capital of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, is a posh and modern city that paradoxically, was named for the ‘little village on the River Dussel’. But that was once upon a time and a lot of water has flown through the Dussel and Rhine Rivers and today Dusseldorf is known as the Rhineland's most elegant and richest cities, braised with strong money and a solid cultural foundation. It is the largest financial center in Germany after Frankfurt and is the home base of the country’s elite, a trendsetting fashion scene and a great place to party.

Best known for its cosmopolitan culture, its avant garde fashion scene and fairs, Dusseldorf attracts thousands of visitors every year and not every one is there on business. The city draws casual tourists to its downtown – the Alstadt area which has been fondly nicknamed ‘the longest bar in the world’ for its hundreds of bars closely knitted with clubs and beer houses; the Koningsallee is a big attraction as is the city’s famed nightlife. At first, Dusseldorf may seem like a city only for the jet setting, cut throat business suits but if you look a little closer the city’s joie de vivre is well in place and frankly, quite infectious!

Dusseldorf makes a good city break if you are touring Germany or have some time before all that Octoberfest madness starts in nearby Munich. Its great fun to explore the pedestrianised old city in hope of discovering a hidden gem or just hitting one of the 500 plus clubs and discos that line the area’s cobbled streets. Just south of Altstadt lie some of the city’s fantastic museums and galleries and are a big tourist draw.

Though the city is big and commercial with banks and industrial offices bouncing off the walls; skyscrapers looming large and the traffic running at a maddening pace; Dusseldorf is also a great place to feed your wanderlust. Try its nightlife, its fabulous Japanese restaurants or its old churches – the city is sure to win your heart.

The Dusseldorf Story

How the village became the city!

The early inhabitants of the area we know as Dusseldorf today were Germanic tribes that successfully managed to hold their own against the rampaging Romans who were out to claim as much of Europe as was possible with their brute force and superior strategy. The tribes on the marshy lands on the east bank of the Rhine resisted and won and moved on to the 7th and 8th centuries building small fishing and farming villages. These small settlements grew rapidly and later on consolidated to become Germany’s glimmering, rich city called Dusseldorf.

Although the first written records that mention Dusseldorf go back to 1135, the city was granted official town rights only in 1288 by Count Adolf V of Berg. This event was preceded by the defeat of Cologne in the battle of Worringen - allegedly the origin of the rivalry between the cities still seen, albeit in good humor, during the Carnival and in most sporting events where the two are pitted against each other.

Dusseldorf grew in leaps and bounds in the 14th century when a market square was built on the banks of the Rhine and a periphery of protective walls was built around it. In 1380, Dusseldorf received the honor of becoming the seat of power of the Duchy of Berg and in the following centuries several of the city’ s landmarks were constructed, the most prominent of which was the Collegiate Church of St. Lambertus.

The Golden Age of the city came into being during the rule of the Prince Elector Johann Wilhelm, who ruled the city from 1679 to 1716. Jan Wellem, as he was affectionately known, was the enlightened Renaissance ruler par excellence and married into the Medici family which later became a key player in the development of the city's trade and infrastructure, as well as being a benevolent patron of the arts.

This golden era began its gradual decline in the years after the death of the childless Johann Wilhelm. The new Elector Karl Theodor robbed the city of its status by moving the electoral court to Munich, the Napoleonic Wars brought destruction and poverty and post Napoleon and the city passed into the Kingdom of Prussia in 1815. However, the city’s fortunes saw a revival with the Industrial Revolution when all the automation started making profits for the city’s economy. The city grew and grew, building bridges so it could spread to the other side of the Rhine.

The Second World War razed nearly 80% of the core of the city as well as nearly decimated the city’s thronging Jewish Population - out of a pre-war Jewish population of 5100, only 249 survived. Post-war, the British occupied the region and made Dusseldorf the capital of the newly-created state of North Rhine-Westphalia.

In the present day, Dusseldorf is home to the headquarters of several insurance, telecommunication and advertising companies along with numerous banks as well as a large number of Japanese companies, which explains why Dusseldorf looks like ‘Little Nippon’! The city’s trade shows attract suits from every developed country on the globe and its vibrant art scene and numerous top-notch art museums reel in artists and performers.

Dusseldorf has managed to remain a provincial city with cosmopolitan affluence and style. It has green spaces; high-brow tastes in shopping and museums, and is the second-most important art market in the country, after Cologne.

The Dusseldorf Season

You can visit Dusseldorf throughout the year as the weather is never on the extremes. That said summer time seems to be preferred by most tourists as the weather Gods are happier and much of the café and pub action moves outdoors. Dusseldorf is not a huge city like New York but it never feels overcrowded except during the big spring and autumn trade shows. If your visit coincides with the furious business deals time, make sure you have booked your hotel well in advance.

The winter season brings its own delights to the city and this is never truer than in December when the Christmas market is in full swing and in February when the entire city erupts in serious partying the big pre-Lent Carnival bash.

Getting in to the city

Fly in or drive in

The Dusseldorf International Airport is the third largest airport in Germany and offers connections to 175 destinations worldwide. Isn’t that a big enough hint for what mode of transport you should choose to get in to the city? Flying in is undoubtedly the best way to reach Dusseldorf and the airport located about 15 kilometers away from the city center is well connected by the city railway "S7" to the main railway station, by car, bus or taxi. Public transport would cost you about € 2.10 and a cab would be pricier at about € 20 – € 22.

You could also arrive at the Koln Bonn Airport which is an hour’s drive from Dusseldorf’s city center or Airport Weeze which services smaller, low-cost airlines flying into Düsseldorf and lies 80 kilometers away from the main railway station. Arriving in the city by train is a convenient affair as the Dusseldorf Hauptbahnhof is a major stop for Deutsche Bahn (German state railway).

Swinging about the city

Being a busy financial hub means Dusseldorf has public transport on top of its agenda. An efficient network of U-Bahn trains, trams and buses, all divided into zones helps city dwellers and visitors move with ease and speed from one place to the other. Most trips within the city are within a single, central zone since Dusseldorf is not a huge city and most attractions are located in its core.

Though public transport is not expensive, you would be doing your holiday budget some good by buying four-trip tickets instead of single-trip tickets. Also, you can save yourself some time and avoid confusion by getting bus and tram timetables here and here.

Pillow Space in Dusseldorf

From luxury to budget

Dusseldorf is primarily a business and a trade fair city which makes it necessary for you to make hotel bookings in advance because though there are a lot of options, the times when business activity is on the upside, few places have rooms available. The same is true for the summer time as that is when the city plays host to the largest number of tourists in a year.

Hotel accommodations in the city run from budget hostels to uber-luxurious hotels that offer the best service and facilities and make your holiday a lavish one. One of the best hotels in the city is the Steigenberger Park –Hotel (€ 247) located near the Hofgarten Park at Konigsallee. The well appointed rooms are geared towards delighting the visitor and the in house Comfort Spa ensures it is a relaxing stay. Another good hotel to consider is the InterContinental Duesseldorf (€499), also located at Konigsallee. Its modernistic design and lavish, spacious rooms are worth the money and the open bar on the upper floors overlooking the atrium is the cherry on the top.

Stage 47 Hotel (€ 154) is one of the best kept secrets on the city’s hotel circuit. Located on Graf-Adolf Strasse, this one is a beauty not just for its location but also for the excellent service, a friendly staff and clean, comfortable rooms. The hotel is popular among tourists for its central location and the next door Savoy Theatre which makes for great night time entertainment. The Courtyard Duesseldorf Seestern (€153) is housed in a 12-storey suburban building in the Alstadt area and preferred for its proximity to all the night time action. Hotel Dusseldorf Mitte (€ 84) is one of the best no-frills, budget-hotel in the city, located on Graf-Adolf Strasse.

The Lindner Hotel Airport (€102) is a great place for a short stay or a stop over, considering it is close to the airport and just a 15-minute taxi ride away from Alstadt. Located in Unterrath, the Lindner offers a comfortable stay. Another good choice of accommodation is the Hotel Michelangelo (€ 66) which makes up for its lack of closeness to the city center with its friendly staff, great breakfast buffet and comfortable rooms.

Other choices to consider in Dusseldorf are the Novotel Dusseldorf City West (€ 107) located on Niederkasseler Lohweg, Max Hotel Garni (€ 75), Acora Hotel und Wohnen Dusseldorf (€ 103) and Holiday Inn Express Dusseldorf North (€ 122). For more accommodation choices take a look here.

Eating out

Dusseldorf dishes out the best

Food plays a starring role in the city’s scheme of fun things and there is no dearth of fabulous restaurants here. Although there are a lot of restaurants that serve, French, Indian, Italian and even middle eastern cuisine, Japanese food rules the roost owing to the presence of a large Japanese expat population. As with most tourist destinations, Dusseldorf offers restaurants suiting every budget.

Since you are on a vacation and can afford to splurge some, try the Im Schiffen on for size. Located in Kaiserwerther Markt, this critically acclaimed restaurant has been the darling of Top 10 list makers for a long time. Close to the city center, Schiffchen features the finest dishes served in a warm and welcoming ambience. The menu features everything from traditional German fare to dishes with an innovative twist and the restaurant’s extensive wine list makes the dining experience top notch.

Breuer's on Hammer Strasse is a popular restaurant that focuses on French cuisine playing to a crowd of media elite and celebs. The menu is a fine example of French tastes and flair, and the accompanying wine list is impeccable. The ambience is young and trendy and the experience well worth it.

Another good eatery in town is Hummerstubchen on Bonifatiusstrasse which features a delicious French-influenced menu, an exceptional wine list and fantastic service and ambience. The place is popular with both locals and visitors and a highly recommended one.

Try the Restaurant Savini on Stromstrasse for a wide array of popular dishes from an international cuisine, fine French gourmand dishes and hearty German fare. On the same street another good restaurant to explore is the Rheinturm Restaurant. This popular eatery at the top of the Rheinturm tower is a great choice for delicious fine dining. You would revel in the extensive menu of local favorites with fresh ingredients and carefully prepared dishes. Get an eye-full of Dusseldorf dining at this restaurant that also offers the finest wine list you could find in the city and perfectly blended cocktails.

Weinhaus Tante Anne at Andreastrasse is a delicious eatery located in the heart of the city and features a full menu of traditional favorites, an extensive wine list, and exemplary service. Other choices to consider are the De' Medici for good French cuisine, Im Alten Bierhause for traditional dishes from the region, Victorian Restaurant for excellent world cuisine, Zum Schiffchen and Zum Schlussel for traditional German dishes that fill up your stomach and your heart!

The Dusseldorf Nightlife

Options unlimited

Dusseldorf’s nightlife is concentrated in the Altstadt. Alstadt or the Old Town is a quaint, charming district in the day time but come moonshine and this 8 square kilometer area between Koningsallee and the Rhine River turns into a veritable jungle of restaurants, dance clubs, art galleries, boutiques, nightclubs, and some 200 song-filled beer taverns. Dusseldorfers refer to a night cruising the Altstadt as an Altstadttbummel. Get a load of it before you leave Dusseldorf – if you don’t you’d regret it!

Dusseldorf has had a long relationship with classical music. The city was once home to such luminaries as Brahms, Mendelssohn, and Schumann and so it is no surprise that Dusseldorfers Symphoniker and its home, Tonhalle on Ehrenhof are world-famous and greatly valued by the city. The Tonhalle is perhaps Germany's most successful modern concert hall after Berlin's Philharmonie and gives about a dozen concerts a year, with tickets running 22€ to 70€.

The Schauspielhaus on Gustav-Grundgens-Platz is famous for its outstanding productions and is a must see place. However, most performances are in German and if you can set the language part aside for a while, the place provides great entertainment.

Dusseldorf is also very famous for its Bars & Beers Halls and you must make a trip to some of the breweries in town. The oldest brewery-bar in the city is Brauerei Schumacher on Oststrasse and is a great experience. Two other breweries that you can explore are the Brauerei im Suchschen on Ratingerstrasse and Brauerei Zum Schlussel on Bolkerstrasse. Each one serves beer brewed on the premises as well platters of hearty German food.

Other beer houses to consider are the Engelchen on Kurzestrasse which is populated by an arty crowd and the N.T. Pub on Konigsallee that is one of the most joyful places you would have ever encountered.

If dancing is your thing then you must head straight to Tor 3 on Ronsdorferstrasse or to Stahlwerk again on Ronsdorferstrasse. The two places in fact lie bang opposite each other and play everything from recorded music churned out by a DJ to live acts from across the continent.

The live music scene in Dusseldorf is nearly splitting at its seams but the top of the heap is the popular piano bar, Bei Tino on Konigsallee. The two greatest things about this place are that the music is on from noon till the wee hours of the morning and if you feel like playing the piano, you can!

McLaughlin's Irish Pub on Kurzestrasse serves Guinness and Murphy's with stew and pies, and presents touring Irish bands on the weekend and the Irish Pub Bei Fatties on Hunsruckenstrasse regales with live blues, rock, jazz, and Irish music on weekends…take your pick!

Discovering Dusseldorf

Dusseldorf is most famous for its Old Town – the Alstadt area. Often called the ‘longest bar in the world’ for its hundreds of bars, beer houses and clubs, Alstadt is a foodie’s heaven and the ultimate watering hole of the city. There is no way you can leave the city without at least one visit to Alstadt and the top thing to do here is to sample the local Alt Beer in one of the traditional breweries like Fuchschen, Zum Schlussel or Schumacher.

The Alstadt is a beautiful, pedestrianised area of the city, chequered with cobbled streets and little alleys. While here step in to the charming 16th-century Rathausplatz – the Town Hall Square, the churches of St Andreas and St Lambertus, the grotesque Battle of Worringen (1288) monument on the Burgplatz next to the tiny River Dussel and the quiet leafy southern part of the Old Town adjacent to Karlstadt.

Rheinturm or the Rhine Tower on Stromstrasse is Dusseldorf’s most recognizable icon and a magnificent building to look at. Go up the tower to get a breathtaking 360-degree view of the city from its large glass windows at 538ft. another place of interest in the city is the Media Hafen or the Media Harbor. The harbor was recently renovated and is so named for its new tenants, who have colonized its striking waterside buildings, including designs by Frank Gehry.

Dusseldorf is well known for its art scene and one of the best places to sample the city’s love of the arts is the Nordrhein-Westfalen Art Collection on Grabbeplatz. The collection features 20th-century masterpieces by Kandinsky, Matisse, Picasso, Mondrian, Klee and Kirchner, and American art after 1945 with works by Warhol, Rauschberg and Pollok; plus world-class temporary exhibitions.

Another museum to not miss in Dusseldorf is the Museum Kunst Palast on Ehrenhof. The museum owns eclectic and extensive collections ranging from the middle ages, the Baroque period and several pieces from the Dusseldorf School of Painting, right up to some startling contemporary artworks and cutting-edge temporary exhibitions.

The Film Museum on Schulstrasse is a must see place for all cinema lovers. The museum explores the history of film in a chronological manner and is a delight to look at. Museum lovers would also not want to miss the Goethe Museum Dusseldorf funded by the Anton & Katharina Kippenberg Foundation. The museum located on Jacobistrasse is dedicated to Goethe’s life and his work and includes autographs, books, busts and china. While on your literary trip also visit the Heinrich Heine Institut dedicated to one of Germany’s greatest lyric poet – Heinrich Heine. Located on Bilkerstrasse, the museum displays more than 10,000 volumes as well as the manuscript bequest of Dusseldorf’s favorite citizen.

Shopping in style

Dusseldorf’s elegant markets

Dusseldorf is Europe’s most elegantly fashionable city and an avant garde when it comes to contemporary fashion. People flock to the city to get an idea of the next seasons styles in everything from apparel to accessories and most spend a fortune shopping at the city’s main shopping areas:

Konigsallee

Fondly nicknamed as the "Ko", Düsseldorf's Konigsallee is one of the hottest shopping areas of the city. Dotted with elegant shopping arcades, Konigsallee is one of the loveliest shopping areas in the world. This is the place to head to for luxury and exclusive items and for burning a few hundred Euros on stuff the rest of the world doesn’t even know about yet! Konigsallee is home to several major designer labels and exclusive stores that include Armani, Kenzo, JOOP and Jill Sanders.

The two largest concentrations of designer shops are found at the Ko Galerie and the Ko Center. Together the two galleries have more than 200 shops for you to wander about in. Try the Bogner Shop for designer sportswear, Chanel for everything from perfumes to clothing and cosmetics, Walter Steiger Schuhe at the Ko Galerie for trendy shoes and Choose from luggage, handbags, shoes, and other accessories at Etienne Aigner again in the Ko Galerie.

The Ko Galerie is also home to some very good stores selling Dinnerware and kitchen accessories. Your best bet would be Georg Jensen for designer silver flatware, bowls, candle sticks, coffee pots etc. while we are at it, try Arts Decoratifs for Art-Deco furniture and objects d’ art like lamps, vases, paperweights, pre-war costume jewelry and souvenirs. Located in the heart of the designer shopping district is Wempe Juwelier- one of a chain of 23 shops scattered throughout Dusseldorf that stocks Swiss watches and delicate jewelry in gold, silver, and precious stones.

Schadowstrasse

For more affordable wares walk down to the recently opened Schadow Arcade, off Schadowplatz, at the end of the Ko where you may not find the next season’s dresses but the collections are good and affordable. The attractive equation of good quality at economical prices has made Schadowstrasse one of Germany's busiest shopping streets and has higher sales revenues than any other in Germany.

The Old Quarter

Dusseldorf's old quarter is known as "the world's longest bar" for its high concentration of watering holes but the area also has a wealth of shopping places in its numerous alleys and narrow side streets that are crammed with little shops and avant-garde stores selling unusual and wildly trendy items. Alstadt is a heaven for those seeking fashion, art and design. Different, sophisticated and great value – this is the place to come for the latest fashion trends.

You can also pick up good bargains on Asian and African antiques like jewelry and ceramics in Altstadt. Try the Lothar Heubel store on Bastionstrasse for authentic pieces and good prices on items from as far as China. The city also offers a unique mall – shopping experience with Carsch Haus on Heinrich Heine Platz where you can shop for apparel, good quality home furnishings and beautiful jewelry.

A top day in Dusseldorf

Begin your day with a hearty breakfast at your hotel so that you are fuelled for a day of walking around this beautiful city. You can of course use the city’s fantastic public transport whenever needed, walking around will not only get you a better flavor of the city but also leave you with the freedom to suddenly delve into a small alley way or explore a side street at will. And oh yes! Do put on your sturdiest walking shoes and your best hat! Summers can get a little hot here.

If breakfast at the hotel sounds too plain, walk around the Old City – the cobbled Alstadt where you are likely to find a charming little café tucked away in a place no guide book has reached yet. Try the Old Town Square where you can not only get a sumptuous breakfast but also great coffee to go with your people watching. Finish your breakfast enjoying the sights and sounds at the Rathausplatz before moving on to marvel at the elaborate architecture of the Church of St Lambertus.

Close to the town square is the interesting Battle of Worringen monument on the Burgplatz. The piece makes you wonder at what cost the war was won!

At this point you would be close to the River Dussel where you can take a short boat ride around Karlstadt or just walk around the promenade to watch boats sail up and down the river. From here move on to the Museum Kunst Palast on Ehrenhof. The museum displays breathtaking pieces of art from the middle ages as well as the Baroque period and is a pleasure to be in.

Even though you have just one day, you simply cannot miss the Rheinturm or the Rhine Tower on Stromstrasse. The tower is Dusseldorf’s most important landmark and the view from the top is simply breathtaking. Take the elevator back to the real world only to be enthralled yet again by the Media Hafen striking buildings and the views of the river. Don’t leave Dusseldorf without shopping to your heart’s content at the stylish and elegant "Ko", Düsseldorf's hottest and trendiest shopping area.

Time for lunch! Go where your fancy takes you for Dusseldorf does food in a great way. Post lunch decide between the Nordrhein-Westfalen Art Collection on Grabbeplatz which features an enormous collection of 20th-century works by masters like Matisse and Picasso and the Film Museum on Schulstrasse. You could also flip the two in favor of the Goethe Museum or the Heinrich Heine Institut dedicated to one of Germany’s greatest lyric poet – Heinrich Heine.

Return to base for a revamp of the ol’ face, a change of dress, a review of the days shopping and head to Alstadt for a drink at the ‘World’s Longest Bar’! Love Opera? Try the Dusseldorfers Symphoniker for a great performance to fill your evening. Would you rather dance the night away? Toss between Tor 3 on Ronsdorferstrasse or to Stahlwerk which is conveniently placed bang opposite.

The Dusseldorf in hiding

- Although there are a lot of Japanese themed restaurants in the city, the best ones can be found only on Immermanstrasse or Klosterstrasse.

- If you are in town during Christmas, give Ko a break and head to Weinachtsmarkt for the best shopping experience

- Try the Aquazoo on a rainy day; it is a great way to spend some time

- Visit the lesser known Stadt Museum for old maps and photos of the city and an exhibition of the war years

- Konigsallee is an expensive place to shop as well as to eat. But if you knew about the Sevens Food Court here you would save a few Euros!

Ko is also home to the Deutsche Bank building where you can find the best coffee and cake and an easy going place to rest your feet

The Veteran’s TalkPost

The best of Dusseldorf through their eyes

Wikitravel.com recommends a meal at Robert’s Bistro in Hafen and pays special attention to the fish and the desserts

World66.com recommends enjoying the most romantic view of the city from a Weisse Flotte – the white pleasure steamers on the River Rhine

NY Times recommends the Zum Uerige near the University for its aged beer – the Altbier and the mouthwatering sandwiches

Frommers recommends staying at Furstenhof for its central location and modern facilities at very affordable prices.

Hot Tips

Make the most of your Dusseldorf vacation

General

Dusseldorf throws more money at the arts than perhaps any other city in Germany and you can pick up several good pieces from art galleries most of which are aggregated in the Old Town

Dusseldorf and neighboring Cologne share an age old rivalry so if you have been to Cologne before coming to Dusseldorf, try avoiding any comparisons…at least not in public!

Dusseldorf has been rated as the #1 place in Germany to live and the cost of living is obviously high here. Be mindful of your expenditure as there are enough distractions here which would lead to overshooting a budget

Families

Take the Rheinbahn’s very interesting tram tours such as a brewery tour, a wine tour to the winehouse Lamm or a tour with a historic tram through the city centre. You would need to make prior reservations, but it is a great family activity

Pick an apartment or an Aparthotel to save money on accommodation expenses

With kids in the family it will be a task keeping the food budget in place. Save yourself some trouble by packing in dry snacks like chocolates, chips and granola bars as well as a good supply of water

Couples

While in Dusseldorf, have fun with a twosome – we are talking Golf here! There are several good golf courses around Dusseldorf and you can book tee times at Hummelbachaue Neuss Golf Course, Kosaido International Club or the Dusseldorf Golf Club

Buy a Mostertpottche or a pot of Dusseldorf’s famous mustard. The pot is worth saving and lays claim to fame as a Van Gogh still life subject

A great activity together would be visiting the Apollo – a variety show/circus

The Rhine River is crossed by eight beautiful bridges in the city; pick your favorite one for a walk at dusk with marvelous views of the city and the river itself.

Stroll around the Hofgarten or take a picnic to enjoy in the beautiful, lush green park