Mad About Madrid

Madrid is one of Europe's largest cities and unique in the absence of a Roman antiquity. Sitting pretty right in the middle of the Iberian Peninsula, this quintessential Spanish city rules the banks of the River Manzanares and was founded by the Moors in the 9th Century. It is the seat of the government and home of the Spanish monarch; a curious amalgamation of Christian and Islamic cultures and a modern, thriving Megapolis.

Madrid is a popular tourist destination because it has one kind of poison for everyone to get addicted to: For the history and art lovers there is the historic Plaza Mayor and the Prado, there is the Royal Palace to feast one’s eyes upon and there is El Cason del Buen Retiro - the Archaeological Museum. For the epicure, there is enough to decipher the labyrinths of Spanish cuisine and sample some of the fines wines of the region.

The compulsive shopper finds a welcome outlet in this beautiful city where shopping is almost an obsession and there is no dearth of objects to desire. The ‘have shoes, will dance’ crowd gets the best deal with Madrid's legendary nightlife that starts to never stop. The city’s near-raucous entertainment style may be a little too much to take for the guy who had to be dragged out of the Prado, but for those who love the night time revelry; Madrid is the place to be in.

An easy-going, charming city, Madrid doesn’t take long to turn you from a stranger into a close friend; it showers you with a lover’s attention and sends you back home longing for more.

How Madrid was born

Humans have occupied the area in and around Madrid for more than 100,000 years. However, it does not appear in recorded history till about the 9th century when Cordoban emir Abderraman II built a fortress here to defend the local population against attacks from Castile and Leon. Conquered by Alfonso VI in 1085, Madrid remained in the shadows cast by the grandeur of nearby Toledo until the 1500s. It was in that era when Charles V took favor on the city, granting Madrid the right to use the royal crown in the city seal.

But Madrid really started on the road to the city we know today when Charles´son, Phillip II, made it the capital of Spain in 156 owing to its strategic location in the middle of the Iberian Peninsula. Perhaps equally important was the lack of non-royal power centers in Madrid -- the Spanish church was headquartered safely down the road in the former capital Toledo, and the city had not built up a class of important local merchants or nobles the way more established cities such as Valladolid or Burgos had.

The city grew rapidly as the seat of government. With no navigable rivers leading to it, and with long and dusty roads between it and other population centers in Spain, the city focused very much on the crown and the court. Not only Spain, but a world empire covering most of the Americas and stretching across broad swathes of the Pacific was administered from this dusty town high on the Castilian plain.

The Hapsburg rulers oversaw the building of much of historical Madrid. The Plaza Mayor dates from this era, as do many notable churches as well as private homes. In the early 1700´s, after the last Hapsburg king died without heir, a branch of the French royal Bourbon family took the throne in Madrid. Bourbon Madrid includes the Palacio Real, the royal palace as well as the building that now houses the Prado museum.

Early in the 1800s, Napoleon placed his brother Joseph Bonaparte on the Spanish throne. Although in many ways a progressive and enlightened ruler, he was wildly unpopular, and in 1808 the city rose up against him. Following the Peninsular Wars, the Bourbons resumed the Spanish throne, although with a growing parliamentary influence.

During this time, Madrid’s geographical isolation began to ease, as railroads connected the city to other parts of Spain. Modern urban design also began to clear out portions of the old city’s warren of small streets, whether with the creation of the Plaza de Oriente by Bonaparte or the creation of the Gran Via in the later year of the century.

The twentieth century brought continued growth and modernization, until the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s. Battles raged just a few dozen blocks from downtown Madrid throughout the war. The city was held by the Republicans, and was attacked by the Nationalist forces under General Franco. Franco’s troops fired artillery shells into the city so regularly that the Gran Via became known as “Howitzer Alley.”

After the Civil War, a new wave of building came to Madrid as the city expanded far beyond its pre-war borders. The 19th century urban model was largely repeated in the growth, with relatively low rise six or seven story apartment buildings mixing medium population density with stores and offices on the lower floors.

Following the end of Franco’s dictatorship, Madrid served as the focus of the “movida” a wild period of new-experienced freedoms and vibrant nightlife in the late seventies and early eighties, analogous in some ways to the social movements of the 60s in other Western countries. On the political front, Madrid saw the emergence of strong constitutional democracy.

No longer the home of an empire; Madrid continues to be one of Europe’s most dynamic international capitals.

Time for Madrid

Spring is the best time to go anywhere in Spain and that is true of Madrid too. The months from March to May and the month of October are the best times to be in Madrid. The weather is mostly good and the whole city looks like someone gave it a new coat of paint! There aren’t too may tourists and you can walk around without stomping on other people’s feet (inadvertently, of course). If you love to party go to Madrid in March to be part of Madrid's biggest fiesta. You might like to book ahead though, it's a tough month for getting even closet space to sleep in.

A Foot In Madrid

The easiest and the sanest way to get to Madrid is by air. It is the international transport hub of the country and the busy Barajas Airport services, located 13 km to the northeast of the city, is well connected to the city by the Metro line number 8. You could also take the airport bus that runs to Plaza de Colón in the city centre but the Metro is still a better bet because snarling traffic and chaotic jams can compound your travel tiredness.

Madrid is accessible by bus, although this option is for the real brave hearts that can bear an arduous journey. Still, if you’ve braved it you would reach one of Madrid’s eight huge, bustling bus stations from where you have the option of taking public transport, a cab or a hired car to take you to your final destination. Driving from Portugal or France is easy, as Spain's major highways feed into Madrid. Follow the Standard European road rules and keep a trusty map handy; there is no road long enough!

As with air travel, Madrid is also the nation’s railway hub with two efficient stations handling all the traffic. Atocha, in the south of Madrid, is the city's larger train station while Chamartín in the north is the other. The majority of trains to the rest of Spain depart from Atocha and Chamartín services international routes.

The Madrid Mambo – Getting about the city

There are several ways you can move about the city and the most efficient way is to use public transport. Madrid’s Metro service is very efficient, costs you just €1 for unlimited rides within the city and saves you from the hot sun in summers! If you anticipate more than six rides buy Métrobus Ticket (Pic below) which is more value for money at € 6.70 for ten rides. Tourists should buy an Abono Touristico - the tourist pass which gives free rides for a day on just one ticket. So according to the number of days you would be in Madrid, choose: 1 day pass (€3.80), 2 day pass (€6.80), 3 day pass (€9.00), 5 day pass (€14.20), or 7 day pass (€19.80). Click here for a map of the Madrid Metro.

Metrobus Ticket

Taking the bus in Madrid is usually a little complicated and confusing for a new person but it costs as little as €1 and there are night buses too, called the Buhos. Another option is taking a cab and though taxis are cheaper here than in other European cities, they can’t beat the price of the bus or metro. Traveling around the city by car, however is a bad idea as in any other large city in the world and the same is true for bikes.

A Place to call your own

Whether you are in Madrid for getting mesmerized by Goya’s Black Paintings (Below – Witches’ Sabbath) or a club crawl over a weekend, the place you choose to stay in will flavor the taste you take back of the city. When it comes to accommodation Madrid spreads a Smorgasbord in front of you.

When money in not the object, you can splash some at Madrid’s finest hotels like The Ritz, inaugurated by Alfonso XIII in 1910 or the Adler Hotel in Campomanes. The choice list goes on to include Hotel De Las Letras in Gran via, Hotel Villa Magna in Paseo de la Castellana, Meninas Hotel in Campomanes, Quo Godoy Hotel in Avda and Quo Puerta del Sol in Calle de Sevilla.

Staying at the Casa de Madrid, a small boutique hotel with all the frills that spell real luxury is a wonderful experience as is the chic art-deco Hotel de las Letras. The modernistic Hotel ME Madrid Reina Victoria and Hotel Urban are your best bets for world class service coupled with efficient and pragmatic décor.

When traveling with the family economy gets the front seat instead of luxury and Madrid fulfils the mandate with the option of apartments for rent. Self-catering apartments have become a solution for those times when a large family needs to be accommodated and there are few hotel rooms available. When in a sticky hotel situation try some of these: Madrid Apartments, HomesForTravellers.com at Glorieta de Bilbao, Apartments-Madrid.com at Divino Pastor, WayToStay.com, Apartments Madrid at Plaza Mayor, Apartments Gran Via at Mesonero Romanos and StopInRoom Apartments at Nuñez de Arce.

Madrid also has many budget hostels for young, single travellers on a shoe string. One of the best places to look for a room is the national youth hostel association. You can get a room for as little as €7.80 going up to €16 per person, per night and includes breakfast. Other choices are: Cat's Hostel in Calle Cañizares, Equity Point Madrid in Montera Street and Los Amigos Backpackers Hostels.

In between all these choices lie the mid-range hotels that often get overlooked. However, nearly all of these hotels in Madrid have sent back happy customers who were serviced with efficiency, care and good cheer. Try some of these options:

Abba Atocha Hotel, Hostal Brisas, Hostal Plaza d'Ort, Hostal San Martin, Hostal Villagarcía and Hotel Liabeny.

YumMadrid!

Gastronomy in Madrid is a national obsession, an art, a booming business and very affordable. Madrid boasts of the most varied cuisine in the country with priceranges to suit different pockets.

You can’t leave Madrid without stopping over at some of the best tapas bars in La Latina, Chueca, Sol, Santa Ana, Salamanca, and Lavapiés. Get some of the best Castilian specialties such as the suckling pig at the Sobrino de Botin, Madrid’s oldest eatery, try the best gourmet rendezvous in the city – the Zalacain and sample the innovative culinary style of the La Broche.

No matter how many days you have in Madrid, do make it a point to get a meal at one of these places:

Jockey: Get great food here and some celebrity – ogling

Lucio: For Celebrity watching, classic Castilian food and a great selection of wines

Café de Oriente: For its refined cuisine and great wines

Principe de Viana – No other place serves better Basque-Navarra cuisine

Asador Donostiarra – Another Basque cuisine place frequented by politicians and celebrities

El Viejo Almacen de Beunos Aires: The only place that offer Argentinean cuisine

Other restaurants of note are: La Bola, El Schotis, Los Gabrieles, Restaurante Cafeteria Brasas Vivas, El Carmen, Manolo Bar – Restaurante, Mayte Commodore, La Barraca, Viva Madrid and Las Moreras.

When traveling with your family you must try restaurants at the Parque de Atracciones in the Casa de Campo.

Till Sunlight Shine

Nightlife Madrid Style

Madrid’s nightlife is a rage and there is always a debate going on whether it is racier than Barcelona or not. Most of the times you will find that it is because Madrid is more than just dance clubs and nightlife includes tascas, cafes, theaters, movie houses, music halls, and nightclubs. Proceed carefully through this maze of offerings -- you'll discover that many are strictly for residents or Spanish-speakers.

The late dinner habit of the city has pushed the night life scene to way until after 11pm, and it generally lasts until around 3am. In summer, Madrid sponsors a series of plays, concerts, and films, making the city a virtual free festival. Get all the listings from a copy of the Guía del Ocio.

Nightlife is so plentiful in Madrid that the city can be roughly divided into the following "night zones."

Plaza Mayor/Puerta del Sol -- The most popular areas for both locals and tourists, one should move with caution here, especially late at night. These areas are filled with tapas bars and cuevas and a tasca crawl is the in thing to do. The major streets for such a crawl are Cava de San Miguel, Cava Alta, and Cava Baja. You can order pinchos y raciones (tasty snacks and tidbits). Gran Vía -- This area contains mainly cinemas and theaters. Most of the after-dark action takes place on little streets branching off the Gran Vía.

Plaza de Isabel II/Plaza de Oriente is another tourist happy area and the most famous landmark here is the famous Café de Oriente.

Chueca -- Along such streets as Hortaleza, Infantas, Barquillo, and San Lucas, this is the gay nightlife district, with dozens of clubs. Cheap restaurants, along with a few female striptease joints, are also found here. This area can also be dangerous in the early hours of the morning, though the customary presence of weekend revelers who throng the streets till around 3am often manages to deter potential pickpockets and muggers. The reasonably active police presence at night also helps.

Arguelles/Moncloa -- For university students, this part of town sees most of the action. Many dance clubs are found here, along with ale houses and fast-food joints. The area is bounded by Pintor Rosales, Cea Bermúdez, Bravo Murillo, San Bernardo, and Conde Duque

Soaking in Madrid

The major sights in Madrid can be seen in a day or so on foot, but the beauty of each one makes it hard to just walk away with a glance and you would need more than a day to absorb all that is Madrid.

Start with Puerta del Sol in the heart of "old" Madrid. A traditional starting point for al sight seeing in Madrid, Puerta del Sol translates into “door to the sun” and is one of the liveliest places in the city. The semi circular junction of Plaza de Sol comprises of shops, bars and restaurants and serves as a great meeting point. Watch out for the statue of the bear eating a strawberry tree or madrona - the symbol of Madrid and the statue of King Carlos III.

A five-minute brisk walk west from here will bring you to Plaza Mayor – a major meeting point, abuzz with activity on sunny days as people enjoy a drink or meal at the cafes or simply sit in the square itself. Move on to the impressive Palacio Real that boasts of over 2000 rooms and breathtaking chandeliers hanging in every room. Marvel at the domes, decorated ceiling of the Catedral Santa Maria de la Almuneda next to the Palacio Real before stopping over at the Plaza Del Oriente - the magnificent square next to the Palacio Real. The statue of the man on the horse is Felipe IV and the statues that surround the Plaza Del Oriente are of monarchs.

A visit to Madrid would be incomplete without a stop at the Prado museum built by Charles III of Spain. This highly acclaimed museum is one of the most popular sights in Madrid and leaves visitors in every form of enchantment at the great works of art by masters like El Greco, Velazquez, Goya and Murillo. Peel yourselves off the beautiful paintings to take a stroll in the Parque del buen Retiro which is within walking distance from Prado. It is huge and the gardens are gorgeous and far more worth a visit than Madrid's botanical gardens.

The two other famous museums of Madrid are The Thyssen Bornemisza Museum and the Reina Sofia Museum famous for being the home of Pablo Picasso’s Guernica.

Other attractions not to be missed in Madrid are Plaza de Espana, Palacio de Communicaciones, Arco de la Victoria, Puerta de Alcala, Real Jardin Botanico and the Templo de Debod.

Style Chasing in Madrid

The Spanish are known for their high sartorial quotient and aesthetic sense. So it is now wonder that in the last few decades, Spain has climbed top of the heap and has become a throbbing world center for design of every kind. You'll have no trouble finding traditional crafts, such as ceramics, guitars, and leather goods, not inexpensive though, at every little nook and corner in the city. Known for contemporary furniture and decorative items as well as chic clothing, shoes, and jewelry, Spain's capital gives Barcelona, its more hip counterpart a good run for its money. Keep in mind that many shops, especially those that are small and family run, close during lunch hours, on Sunday, and on Saturday afternoons. Shops generally accept most major credit cards.

Madrid has three main shopping areas. The first, the area that stretches from Callao to Puerta del Sol (Calle Preciados, Gran Vía on both sides of Callao and the streets around the Puerta del Sol), includes the major department stores (El Corte Inglés, the French music-and-book chain FNAC), and popular brands such as H&M and Zara.

The second area, far more elegant and expensive, is in the eastern Salamanca district, bounded roughly by Serrano, Juan Bravo, Jorge Juan (and its blind alleys), and Velázquez; the shops on Goya extend as far as Alcalá. The streets just off the Plaza de Colón, particularly Calle Serrano and Calle Ortega y Gasset, have the widest selection of designer fashions -- think Prada, Loewe, Armani, or Louis Vuitton -- as well as other mainstream and popular local designers (Purificación García, Pedro del Hierro, Adolfo Domínguez or Roberto Verino). Hidden within Calle Jorge Juan and Calle Lagasca and Calle Claudio Coello is the widest selection of smart boutiques from renowned young Spanish designers, such as Sybilla, Josep Font, Amaya Arzuaga, and Victorio & Lucchino.

Finally, for hipper clothes Chueca is your best stop. Calle Fuencarral, from Gran Vía to Tribunal, is the street with the most shops in this area. On Fuencarral you can find name brands such as Diesel, Gas, and Billabong, but also local brands such as Homeless, Adolfo Domínguez U (selling the Galician designer's younger collection), and Custo, as well as some makeup stores (Madame B and Mac). Less mainstream and sometimes more exciting is the selection you can find on nearby Calles Hortaleza, Almirante, and Piamonte.

Chasing Madrid

There is a lot you can see in Madrid in one day and if you had more time, sure, you would be able to see more. But as they say, how much is enough in Madrid?

Chase the best of Madrid in one day starting with a morning spent well at the Prado Museum in the tree-lined Paseo del Prado. Concentrate on a few

Masterpieces close to your heart and soak in every little detail. Walk out into the open air at the Botanical Gardens, sitting pretty like a whole other work of art, right next to the museum. Stroll up to the Neptuno fountain (Below) and walk up the Carrera de San Jerónimo, past the Congreso de Diputados, to the Puerta del Sol, whose clock chimes fill up the whole place at every hour. Look for the emblematic little statue of the Bear and the Madroño, there is always something new to find in it.

Amble around the spacious Plaza Mayor with its central statue of Felipe IV and his forty nobles before plopping down for lunch in one of the many eating spots in Cava Baja. Settle that delicious lunch down with a walk through the surrounding Austrias district, heart of 16th-century Madrid. In the late afternoon, head to the Plaza Oriente and have a drink in the Café Oriente as you enjoy the view of the Palacio Real.

Secret spots

A great museum that often gets overlooked is actually the city’s best kept secret: Museo de la Ciudad may not be the Prado but it gives you some of the best tales to take back home. Another hidden gem is the Museo Thyssen that houses beautiful works by Van Eyck, Fra Angelico, Lichtenstein and Salvador Dali.

Check out the place where Spain’s socialist party was founded in 1879 – Casa Libra – and sample fantastic traditional fair like Bacalao (salted cod) and cana. This little treasure is just off the Puerta del Sol.

Hunt for Corgui off Calle Segovia in La Latina; you will be rewarded with mouth watering goat cheese croquetas with hot grapes and the solomilo with truffle oil and sea salt.

The Café la Palma is a quiet place and quite a discovery. Unlike the more touristy places, Café la Palma is an uber-chill café that transforms into a bar late at night

When you want hip and funky clothes go to the market along Calle Fuencarral; for those ‘to die for’ shoes walk ahead to the Calle Augusto Figueroa

Make some time to take a day trip to Cordoba for its Great Mosque and the Jewish Quarters.

Get the perfect Paella – “La Paella De La Reina” on Calle De Reina just off Grand Via. This is the most un-touristy place you can find in the city and it will seduce you with its endless varieties of Paella.

Another authentic eatery in hiding is the La Trucha on Calle Nunes de Arce. It could take some work fishing this one out, but go ahead and do it if only for its Jamon, Manchego cheese and Chorizo dishes, fried squid and aubergines.

Shop for Funky Agatha Ruiz de la Prada stationery - the designer label of the notebook world, decorated with brightly colored hearts and flowers, with matching pens. Available at Carlin stationery and El Corte Ingles stores

Get some delectable home made ice cream at Ricci Gelataria in Calle de las Huertas

The Tip Master

General

Madrelinos tend to eat their meals even later than in other parts of Spain so fill up with snacks in between meals

During lunch time more restaurants offer a menú del día (daily fixed-price special) that includes a main course, dessert, wine, and coffee.

Always make reservations for dinnertime, which by the way, begin no earlier than 9 pm.

Dress in most Madrid restaurants and tapas bars is casual but stylish. Compared with Barcelona, the pricier places are a bit more formal; men often wear jackets and ties, and women often wear skirts.

Keep some basic medicines with you for emergencies. The rich food may produce mild diarrhea and fever

Families

- If you have children in the family, buy an Abono Touristico pass for traveling in the metro. There is a 50% discount for kids under 11 and that is sure to save you some money.

- Lunch and dinner times in Madrid restaurants start later than most other places and it would help to keep some snacks handy

- Always keep bottled water handy because the sun tends to unusually heat up the place

- Even though Madrid is a very kid-friendly place, not all restaurants fall in that category. So it is best to ask when making reservations.

- Always make reservations when eating out; Madrelinos tend to spend a lot of time on their meals and tables empty slower than other places. Booking a place helps you avoid cranky kids and adults!

- Pick pocketing and similar crimes are not rampant but not out of the ordinary either in the city. Keep as little money as possible with you and keep a good eye on your belongings

- Get a metro pass for traveling; renting a car is expensive and taxis are a mixed bag

Museum hopping and all that shopping may not excite kids for a very long time; take them to the municipal children’s playground right behind the awesome Palacio Real and you may be forgiven. The playground is complete with swings and slides and shaded by thick chestnut trees.

Another outdoor treat for kids is the Retiro Park – best seen in early mornings, it would help kill the boredom during the time when everything in Madrid is shut…shops, museums, markets…nothing opens before 10 am!

- Reserve a day for the Faunia Nature Park. It is fun for kids and adults alike and the whole day can be filled with several activities

- Food time together is the best family time spent. Give your family a big treat by getting Churros for breakfast – a vacation where you get to eat doughnuts dipped in chocolate has to be the best vacation ever!

Couples

Visit the Parque del buen Retiro which is within walking distance from Prado. It is huge and the gardens are gorgeous and far more romantic than Madrid's botanical gardens. Hire a boat and go paddling in the large man made lake

- Whisper sweet nothings in each other’s ears at the El Jardin Secreto

Attend the beautiful service at the Basilica San Francisco el Grande, its beautifully designed and decorated interior and ceilings have made may hear some bells!

Watch a Flamenco performance together – the sheer energy of the dance is a big turn on

Spend a day at the Medina Mayrit Arabic Baths

Spend an afternoon strolling around the boho-chic district of Chueca and stop at one of the many vibrant bars before you call it a day

Take your significant other to the beautiful Teatro Real for some of the world’s best Opera and Ballet presentations. If you are lucky enough you might catch a show by stars like Placido Dominigo

Hear! Hear!

Frommer’s suggests couples don’t leave Madrid without dining at the El Amparo – one of the city’s most elegant restaurants with cascading vines on its façade. The menu offers a nouveau Basque cuisine, a fantastic choice in wines and a mood-setting décor

Bootsnall strongly suggest planning your trip to Madrid to coincide with the Gay Pride Day Parade that starts at Puerta de Alcalon and continues to Puerta del Sol

Mad About Madrid recommends sampling the Goxua – a traditional Basque dessert made from sponge, cream and liquid caramel – the delicious taste is unique to the city

Fodors online recommends: Hotel Intur Palacio San Martin as the best place to stay in Madrid and La broche, La Trucha and El Chaflan as the best places to eat out.

Madrid virtual Tour

If you want to explore Madrid from your computer, you can do this downloading this files to use with Google Earth software:

Madrid  places virtual tour (kmz file)

Madrid monuments museums and churches virtual tour (kmz file)