From Bohemia to Prague

Unraveling the Golden City

“Bohemian” was once a life style attributed exclusively to rebellious artists, painters, performers and flashy socialites; “Boho-Chic” was born out of this and Fashionistas, artists, creative people, wannabe creative people all across the world want to be ‘tainted’ with this word at least once in their lifestyle. The reason for this aspiration is that for centuries the word “Bohemian” has painted the picture of blissful and careless abandon; it is a vivid picture of something that grows unfettered and unchallenged and all of that is so welcome to a free thinking, radical mind. And to think this contribution to the dictionary came from a city that got pummeled by communism for forty years!

Sitting right in the middle of Bohemia, Prague was founded on the banks of the River Vltava in the later part of the 9th century and served for a long time as the seat of Bohemian Kings. It is regarded by many as one of Europe’s most charming and addictive cities; one that seduces slowly and never lets you forget it completely. Spared the vagaries of WWII, the cityscape today looks like a stunning socialite with a devil-may-care attitude, making an entry at the red carpet.

A perplexing crisscross of cobbled lanes, dark passages and innumerable churches, Prague today is one of Europe’s most popular destinations playing host to millions of tourists every year. Prague’s 1100 year old castle (Below), its unique cuisine and the marvel of its swan filled Vltava River – all make up a picture postcard vacation that lingers on in your memories.

Prague is also a vibrant city; gregarious, welcoming and fun with its swinging night culture, its energetic music, its arts and its beautiful festivals. One of its many attractions is that it is affordable and easily accessible to anyone who is looking. If you are planning to go to this mesmerizing city, pat your back for a good decision and read on to equip yourself with updated information on Prague.

Discover its roots

The Coat of Arms of the King and the Kingdom of Bohemia Human beings have occupied the Prague valley area ever since 6000BC but it was not before 4000 BC that it saw civilization in the form of farming communities established by Germanic and Celtic tribes. The Celtic tribe Boii were the predominant settlers in the area they named Bohemia. Slavs settled around both banks of the River Vltava by 600AD and defended their fertile land from attacks by neighboring settlements and tribes. However by the 9th century the control of the land had passed (briefly) to the Great Moravian Empire that introduced Christianity to Bohemia. King Wecnceslas made Christianity the state religion in the 930s and earned the permanent post of the Patron Saint of the Czech Republic. However, it was not till Charles IV came on to the scene that Prague became a city of reckoning, stature and prosperity. This was the time when Prague acquired its evocative Gothic structures like Charles University, Charles Bridge and St. Vitus Cathedral.

The 14th and 15th centuries saw a spate of outspoken radicals like Master Jan Hus, a preacher and the rector of the Charles University, pushing for church-reforms and subsequently getting burned at the stakes. The centuries also saw the rise of the pre-dominantly Catholic Hapsburg family to power in the region with several changes taking place subsequently. The change of guard at the top slowed down the reformist movement but more trouble brewed in 1618 when the reformist movement, once again, turned violent and in the process brought about the Thirty Years War which raged across the continent decimating everything in its maw. Most of Bohemia lay victim to this war and this defeat cast a black shadow on Czech independence for three centuries.

Monument to Jan Hus

However, the 17th century was a good time for the Jewish community in Prague and is called the Golden Age of Jewish Prague. The glory was short-lived as the community was persecuted again in 1745 when Maria Theresa of Austria expelled them from the kingdom on allegations of having collaborated with the Prussian army against Prague.

In 1689, a great fire, supposedly started by French agents, destroyed large sections of the city. The event actually turned out to be in the city’s favor as it spurred a renovation and re-building drive. By the 19th century Prague, now unified by the imperial decree of 1784, had become the centre of the Czech National Revival which celebrated Czech literature, architecture and journalism.

Nationalist sentiment acted as a catalyst for pro-democracy protests and even led to an uprising in 1848 which was sadly routed. However in 1861 the Czech majority defeated German candidates in the Prague council elections making the event a watershed in the fight for Czech independence.

By the beginning of the 20th, the Czech nationalist movement was had gained enough strength to be able to decide that they did not wish to fight in WWII for their Austrian masters in WWI. The neighboring Slovakia felt the same way about their German occupiers and therefore leaders from both independence movements approached US President Wilson, who was actively trying to build the League of Nations, asking for his help in achieving their dream. With Allied support, Czechoslovakia became an independent nation in 1918; Prague became its first capital.

The young nation was still in the throes of the Great Depression when Nazi Germany occupied Czechoslovakia in 1939 - Bohemia and Moravia became ‘protectorates’ while Slovakia was reduced to being a puppet state. The worst hit, however were Prague’s 120,000 Jews who were almost annihilated by starvation or in Nazi concentration camps. On May 5, 1945, Prague joined hands with the approaching Red Army to overthrow Nazi occupation and their power was so overwhelming that most of Prague was liberated before the Soviets arrived – that date was May 8th and is still celebrated as Liberation Day.

In the 1946 elections, the communists became the young republic's dominant party, and in 1948 did away with the inefficiencies of a multi-party system with a Soviet-backed coup d'état. In 1968, after years of gradual liberalization under General Secretary Dubcek, the 'Prague Spring' came into full bloom but was soon blown away by Russian domination that established a new and more stringent communist leadership that stayed in place till the 1989 fall of the Berlin Wall.

Free elections were held in 1990, and the Czech and Slovakian separatist movements subsequently inspired the smooth 1993 split into the Czech and Slovak Republics, remembered as the 'Velvet Divorce'. Prague quickly became one of the top tourist destinations in the world during the 1990s, and the ringing of cash registers combined with a solid industrial base has left its citizens in better economic shape than those in the rest of the country. Much of this spare change has been reinvested in the city itself, making for an even more pleasant visit.

Summers or winters?

When to go to Prague

Czech painted Easter Eggs or “Kraslice”

While winters make most tourist attractions shut shop across much of the Czech Republic, Prague bucks the trend by playing happy host to visitors all twelve months. Easter and Christmas see a flood of tourists emptying into the city as do the New Year Holidays. May and June have more sunlight hours and are therefore warm enough was tourists to walk around The Golden City soaking in its fairytale atmosphere.

July and August may not be very good months to visit Prague as most city inhabitants are themselves on vacations and a lot of businesses are shut down. However, it is easier to find cheap accommodation like student hostels during this time. If you can put up with the cold and the periodic smog alerts during weather inversions, hotel space is plentiful in winter (outside Christmas/New Year), and Prague looks good enough to eat, sitting pretty like an iced cake.

We’ve been recommending air travel for getting in to most destinations so far, but for Prague throw the idea out of the window and get on to one of the economical & efficient trains (a rarity) of Czech Railways (ČD) and the buses, which are even more affordable, run more frequently and are quite comfortable. If air travel is inevitable you would land at the Ruzyne (above), the international airport of the Czech Republic.

Prague's Ruzyne airport lies about 17km northwest of the city centre and is the country’s only international airport. It's served by dozens of international carriers, including Česke aerolinie (ČSA), the state airline. Smaller Karlovy Vary airport primarily serves domestic travellers, but has regular flights to Moscow.

If you are traveling by bus you will reach the Florenc station, though many regional buses reach other terminals scattered throughout the city. Trains run daily between Prague and most major European cities; Paris, Amsterdam, Munich and Vienna are some major hubs. Within the Czech Republic, Czech Railways (ČD) provides cheap, efficient service. Various passes are available.

Get around the city

Prague's compact historic centre makes it easy to take it all in on foot. You could also use the city’s excellent public transport system for longer distances. Driving a car or riding a bike, are both out because the city is not very well suited to either option. You could take a taxi if you need to haul luggage to say the airport but try to get a radio taxi as the ones on the streets are sure to rip you off with inflated rates. Weather and water levels permitting, various outfits ply boats up and down the Vltava River. These are more sightseeing cruises than transport. One of the best ways of getting around in the city is by metro. Get a free map of the metro here.

A Case for Pillow Space

Prague has a zillion choices

Corinthia Towers Hotel

The natural beauty of Prague ensure you get lovely views from most hotel rooms but the best panoramic views can be had from the erstwhile Hotel Forum, now called Corinthia Towers Hotel. Make sure you stay in a north-facing room and you could feast your eyes upon the city’s brilliant skyline with the Prague Castle studded like a gem in it. Another hotel worth exploring for the city views it affords is the Hotel U trí pstrosu – watch out for the breathtaking Malá Strana's red rooftops.

The U Krále Karla is a beautiful property decorated with a Renaissance motif, on the main castle-bound thoroughfare Nerudova. This one is for a calm and serene experience in the city. Also try the new Prague Marriott Hotel just off námestí Republiky near the imposing Czech National Bank. It is comfortable, efficient, centrally located and offers all the comforts you expect from a world class hotel.

Prague also has a good selection of Pensions and Bed & Breakfasts for the discerning traveler. Try Pension Vetrník, a family-run B&B for friendly service and easy access to most of the main attractions. The newly restored Hotel Paríz recalls 1920s Prague, one of the wealthiest cities on earth at that time.

Another hotel popular with tourists is The Golden Well on U Zlate Studne (€227); expensive, but worth it with excellent service and well-appointed rooms. In the same price range you could try booking a room at The Golden Wheel (€208), Three Golden Chains (€200), Hotel Le Palais (€225), Santini Residence (€249), Aria Hotel (€291), Savic hotel Prague (€160) and K+K Hotel Central (€170). A slightly less expensive but good-value-for-money hotel that we would recommend are The Icon Hotel at € 185. Prague also offers wallet-friendly, well-serviced and comfortable rooms at the Arcadia Residence (€73) and Aparthotel City 5 (€99) and Residence Belehradska (€87).

Bed & Breakfasts offer great value and are a very good option for families, young travelers and seniors. Some of the best Bed & Breakfasts in Prague are:

Arcadia Old Town € 114

House at the Big Boot (Dum u velke boty)

Lida Guest House € 60

Hana's Bed & Breakfast € 17

Botel Matylda € 161

Eating out – the Traditional Trio & More

Mouthwatering Knedlo, Vepro and Zelo

Traditional Czech cuisine is typically central European, with German, Austrian, Polish and Hungarian influences and the standard meal available at every restaurant consists of the Trio of “knedlo, vepro and zelo” which is essentially bread dumpling, sauerkraut and roast pork. There are a lot of restaurants selling mouthwatering cuisines, but while you are Prague, don’t miss out on the Trio or the traditional Czech beer that has been brewed in the region since the 10th century. Some of the best Czech beer brands are Plzen, Budvar Kozel, Krusovice, Radegast, Smichov etc.

The recent years have seen a spate of new restaurants coming up in the city. Out of these the Kampa Park is a great summer time restaurant. You can dine outdoors with a hauntingly beautiful view of the Vltava and the Charles Bridge to keep you company. Try U Malíru in Maltézské for its affordable haute cuisine and the Nebozízek in Petrínské sady for its breathtaking view of the city from the Petrín Hill.

The Kavárna Obecní dum is a revisited art nouveau cafe at the Municipal House that gives you great food with even better live Jazz and the Bellevue is great for its no-nonsense business friendly atmosphere. Restaurant U Cízku is the best place to sample a hearty, fulfilling traditional Czech meal perfectly accompanied by a Pilsner lager.

However the best Czech Cuisine in the city comes from the elegantly decorated U modré kachnicky. Also try U Vejvodu for s spicy goulash, Il Ritrovo for home made pasta and Old Town's Rybí trh for the best sea food.

Nightlife

Nightlife in Prague is very trendy and at the same time quite traditional. Try some of these places to reach your own conclusion and have fun on the way:

Lavka Bar & Club: - a good place a drink and a dance in winters, absolute craze on a hot summer night

Duplex Dance Club & Café Bar: A great place to sit and people watch with a cup of coffee and to dance away the night

Karlovy Lazne Dance Club: One of the coolest places in Prague to hang out if you're into serious clubbing; spread over five floors, this is the biggest club of its type in Central Europe.        

Bombay Cocktail & Music Bar: lively music, easily accessible and great party crowd. There is also a small dance floor when you get in the mood to shimmy some.        

Double Trouble Bar & Club: Set in a Gothic cellar Prague's Double Trouble is a small, but lively bar & club with plenty of atmosphere.

Lucerna Music Bar & Club: Lucerna near Wenceslas Square hosts gigs of popular Czech bands during the week and is an 80's/90's themed nightclub at weekends, with video accompaniment to most of the tunes.

Vagabonds in Prague

Loiter, and you shall find!

The best way to catch in all the attractions in Prague is to simply walk about, loiter…the city’s long and storied history manifests itself in so many monuments, buildings that showcase architectural superiority, parks and gardens that steal your heart and markets that at once put Prague in the crucible of past and the uproarious present. Start out in the Castle District of the city that is spread across the top of the hill overlooking the city.

Castle Hill, or Hradcany, is one of the most-visited parts of Prague, next to the Old Town. The complex on Castle Hill contains palaces, churches, gardens, and galleries. Many are open to the public year round - others are open only on special occasions or to administrative personnel.

The district has many gems hidden inside like the St. Vitus Cathedral founded in the 9th century and the official residence of the current president. The Old Royal Palace was home to the Kings of Bohemia from the 11th to the 17th centuries. The Royal Apartments and Vladislav Hall, where Bohemian knights once jousted, kings were throned and today presidents are sworn into office. Next to the red façade of the Romanesque Basilica of St George, lies the Benedictine Convent, housing the National Gallery’s remarkable collection of old Bohemian art. Behind the gallery is the picturesque cobbled alley known as Golden Lane, a row of 16th-century tradesmen’s cottages, brightly colored and built into the fortifications.

View of Charles Bridge from Petrin Tower

Next visit the Charles Bridge a part of everyday life in Prague. Also known as ‘Karlov Most’, it spans 516 meters over the river and at one time was the only means of crossing the river. It was an important trade route between Eastern and Western Europe as well as a key connection in the city’s Old Town. Today it is the main thoroughfare and footbridge for locals and tourists alike.

While you are touring Prague’s Castle district visit the St. Vitus Cathedral on Castle Hill. An imposing structure, this Gothic Cathedral was designed by Franticek Kysela during the late 1920s. The most favorite tourist point here is the Rose Windows.

Another beautiful church that you must visit is the Church of St. Nicholas or the Chram svateho Mikulase. Mozart played the organ in this church that is worth seeing for its Baroque architecture. The National Theater (Narodni divadlo) is a national symbol of Czech culture and independence. Built in the neo-renaissance style, it is located next to the Vltava River.

The Strahov Monastery (right) is famous not only for its marvelous architecture and its enormous library used in the movie- League of extraordinary Gentlemen, the monastery also draws tourist for a taste of its excellent beer brewed on the premises.

Make some time for the Old Town Hall and the Astronomical Clock in the Square - one of Prague's most popular sights. The original parts of the clock date back to the 1400s, but the clock has been updated throughout the centuries. Watch out for the figures that emerge from the clock upon the hour and the crowds jostling to watch the phenomenon.

Another sight worth visiting is the Municipal House in the Old Town Prague. This Art Nouveau beauty is detailed with mosaics, curved glass, sculptures, stained glass, and other artistic touches throughout. Leading turn-of-the-century Czech artists like Alfons Much, collaborated on designing different sections of this wonderful structure.

The Old Jewish Cemetery in the Jewish Quarter was used from 1439 - 1787. Because the cemetery is 12 graves deep, the tombstones are crowded, toppled, and in disrepair. Despite this, many feel that the Old Jewish Cemetery is one of the most beautiful sights in Old Town Prague.

Built during 1992-96 by Frank Gehry and Vladimir Mulunic, the Dancing House is a piece of controversial Prague architecture that the locals still aren't sure about. However, the delightful design of the building, nicknamed "Fred and Ginger" for the way the building mimics the forms of a dancing couple, is usually a prime object of photography for tourists. The La Perle de Prague, housed on the top floor, is one of Prague's top restaurants - and one of its most expensive. Locals and expats alike go La Perle de Prague to propose, to celebrate, or to show off.

Climb the steps to the Petrin Tower to get great panoramic views of Prague. This tower, a copy of the Eiffel Tower (but one-fifth of the size) is made from recycled railroad tracks.

Petrin Tower is located in Petrin Park. Petrin Park contains the Mirror Maze (it is just what its title suggests - a maze of mirrors), the Hunger Wall (a 15th century project to employ Prague's poor), and the Stefanik Observatory.

Other sights to see in Prague are the Magic lantern theatre, known for its modern and quite controversial glass design; the Powder Tower also called the Powder Gate which gives the best view of the city from the observatory on the top; St. James Church which is an attractive Baroque reworking of a Gothic church and the Rudolfinum – the venue for the best classical music in the city.

Shop till you drop

The best shopping area in Prague is the Wenceslas Square (left) but you can find a lot of small, quaint shops on every street especially in Old Town. You will have a chance to buy there souvenirs, hand cut glass, bohemian garnet or jewels only you cannot haggle as prices are always fixed, even in the stalls.

There are four main shopping malls in the city: Cerna Ruze, just next to Wenceslas Square; Novy Andel, the largest one in the city center; Vinohradsky Pavilon – a former historical market hall that was reconstructed into nice shopping mall and the Myslbek – a small shopping mall located just opposite the Cerna Ruze. The city now also boasts of some huge hypermarkets which were not there in the communist times and you can buy all kinds of world renowned brands here: Zlicin, Letnany and Cerny Most.

Most tourists usually buy hand cut crystal or bohemian garnet. Many stores sell souvenirs like painted marionettes, wooden toys, traditional ceramic ware, Easter eggs, drawings, paintings and photographs of the city. You can even find Soviet military paraphernalia and matryoshka dolls. One of the best places for buying t-shirts, sweatshirts, mugs, toys and postcards is located in Husova 1.

One Fine Day in Prague

Discover the ‘Prague Incognito’

The Children of Terezín: A poignant exhibition of sketches drawn by children held at the Terezin concentration camp.
Jumping into "4-D" at Orlík near the Orlík Castle, south of Prague.
Take a walking tour of the Satov Wine Cellar where some of the finest Moravian wine produced at the Satov vineyard is stored.
Visit a Large Communist-Era Housing Estate also called a paneláky. Are they painful looking montrosities or hundred percent functional? You decided.

The Travels-Booking Tipster

General

Czech Republic does has not converted its currency to the Euro yet and you will need to convert your currency on arrival

Prague hotels observe High Season and Low Season, so be prepared to pay more for higher season

Foreign visitors are expected to tip about 10% of the total bill whereas locals rarely leave a substantial amount.

It is hard to find an honest taxi driver in Prague and it would help if you were aware of the average pricing before hand so as not to get ripped –off.

An otherwise safe city, Prague turns a marauder’s heaven in Christmas time when bag snatchers and scam artists make a killing in crowded areas. Stay Alert and Stay Safe!

Families

Touring Prague with your family most likely includes kids and the city is quite kid –friendly. However, it is best to check what kid-appropriate facilities are available at a hotel before booking. You don’t want cribbity adolescents looking for a non-existent pool

Museum chasing will bore younger children after a while (actually quite soon!) The carrot here is the Prague Zoo, considered one of the best in the world

You can get small meals at most tourist –centric places at all times of the day. Still, it would be good to keep some snacks like candy bars, wafers and water in the group

If you are going to Prague during Christmas time, keep your money and belongings safe from pick pockets.

Don’t carry more cash than you would need in one day

One of the must see sights in Prague is the Lobkowicz Palace – the exquisite small museum of the Lobkowicz family’s long and illustrious history. Watch out for the rare manuscripts of Beethoven and Handel. But before you go here spend a few hours at the Prague Castle in the Castle district; stay on to watch the changing of the guard ceremony.

Visit the Toja Zoo.

Couples

Prague is a very romantic city if you are fortunate to be with the one you love. The choices for spending romantic evenings are endless given the happening night life in Prague. However, even more romantic is just ambling about the city, hand in hand, aimless and not intent on arriving anywhere. Try it!

Sight seeing and museum watch are two tourist activities by default. Try spending an afternoon in the Frantiskanska Garden and its charm is sure to envelope you as well

If you are in Prague during Easter, get some color in your life with a trip to one of Prague’s Easter Markets. Banned during the communist era, these markets are a riot of color that can soothe hearts and make you feel five….try the markets in The Old Town Square and the Wenceslas Square

They Recommend……

Frommer’s recommends The Romantik Hotel U raka for its excellent and very real Bohemian. The hotel is situated in a ravine just a short distance from the castle in Hradcany. The cozy rustic rooms, the authentic and very saliva – inducing cuisine make up all the parts of the tastefully decorated interiors.

Fodor’s recommends staying at the Dum U Cerveného Lva or the Hotel Palace Praha as these are the two best historic hotels in the city.

On Fodor’s recommendation try Bredovsky dvur and Cerny Kohout for the best food in town.

Prague virtual Tour

If you want to explore Prague from your computer, you can do this downloading this files to use with Google Earth software:

Prague virtual tour part 1 (kmz file)

Prague virtual tour part 2 (kmz file)

Prague virtual tour part 3 (kmz file)